WHY GO? Gianmaria Zanotti’s much loved establishment is bustling and usually crowded, but the excellent kitchen and well drilled waiting staff keep the whole place ticking over nicely.

WHAT TO ORDER? The menu focuses on traditional Italian favourites, taken out of the ordinary with topquality ingredients; portions are very generous as well. Begin with parma ham and melon, sinfully rich mozzarella in carrozza or leave the choice to the chef’s selection of mixed antipasti. There’s a good range of pasta – the unctuous linguine with squid ink is especially fine – as well as risotto and pizza. Picks of the main courses include rosemary-infused steak alla fiorentina, tasty grilled baby chicken and delectably moist sea bass baked in a salt crust. Desserts also look familiar, but outstrip most similar offerings in town; tiramisu, zuppa inglese (similar to a trifle) and amaretto-packed zabaglione present a choice of sweet endings to a splendid feast.

Zanotti’s full list of over 600 bottles is magnificent, an Aladdin’s cave of Italian viniculture from all regions.