South Africa’s winemakers just seem to get better and better as they firmly establish themselves in the pantheon of great wine with a consistently high-quality product, reports Kathrin Puff

For years, condemnation of South Africa’s racist apartheid system resulted in near global boycotts of its export products, including wine. Only with reforms in the late 1980s was the country able to open its wine market to international consumers and to focus on quality winemaking instead of mainly cheaper bulk offerings. Its wine soon became a major presence on store shelves around the world. Nowadays it is unthinkable not to mention South Africa when talking about world-class cabernets, shiraz, chardonnays and sauvignon blancs. The reason is easy to explain: this country is literally kissed by nature when it comes to favourable wine-growing conditions. The wine lands of South Africa are divided into 21 wine-of-origin areas, which have distinctive climates, soil patterns and topographies. Sandwiched between the Atlantic and IndianOceans, South Africa has weather highly conducive to grape growing, especially between the 27th and 34th parallels. This region’s Mediterranean climate, coupled with cool sea breezes and fog from the coastal areas can change temperatures drastically resulting in a warm summer and a cold winter with the rainy season from May to August. Franschhoek, Paarl, Stellenbosch, Robertson, Wellington, Breede River, Breede Kloof and Constantia are the well-known regions, planted mainly with international grape varieties like sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, but as well with the lesser-known colombard, the underappreciated chenin blanc and pinotage.

What is the hallmark South African wine? The answer is a resounding, pinotage! This variety, a cross between pinot noir and cinsault is cultivated across the country and is the delight of some and the nemesis of other winemakers. Enthusiasts love its delicate and complicated nature though to do it justice one must know how to tease out the typical banana and tropical fruit notes without putting too much emphasis on the less-appreciated earthier and smokier characteristics. Another camp is less impressed, opining that pinotage is not a varietal to spend too much time with. They focus their adulation on such South African red grape varieties as shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

Most of South Africa’s wine areas are within two or three hours’ drive from Cape Town on highway N1, with a majority of the estate wineries near the cities of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Further north, after cutting through the tunnel at Toitskloof pass, the mountains around Breedekloof loom ahead as you drive into the Breede river valley, then onto Worcester and Robertson. This area produces excellent reds and whites, and although many estates are within 50 to 60 kilometres of each other, variations in soil and climate show huge variations. Around Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek the reds present a lot of complexity, structure, maturity and deepness. The whites have abundant tropical fruit notes and crispy acidity. The lesser-known wines from nearby Breede river and Breedekloof certainly deserve a higher profile. This green area with rich soil and long summer days provides the ideal conditions to produce excellent reds and whites at even a higher yield than in Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Well appreciated are fresh and aromatic colombards, elegant and creamy chardonnays and the spicy, peppery cabernets. Robertson-area wineries, about an hour from Breede river, having heavier soils, are justifiably proud of their hearty reds, with rich flavours, ripe tannins and usually higher alcohol content than Breede river’s. Top producers generate outstanding chardonnays, sauvignon blancs and pinot noirs as well. Swartland, situated northwest of Stellenbosch, is one of the driest areas in the region and depends on irrigation to grow its outstanding reds.

Skeptics of New World wines who vehemently and stubbornly champion those of the Old World over all others will probably change their tune when they taste the current offerings from South Africa’s outstanding vineyards. Unpretentious and straightforward, South African wines are poised to take a leading position in the cellars of wine lovers everywhere.