WHY GO? Sample upscale Japanese creations while checking out the celeb diners in an environment of frosted, backlit glass. Music leaks from Nami, the adjoining teppanyaki place.

WHAT TO ORDER? Tsu offers plenty of traditional selections for fans of sushi and sashimi, but it’s always worthwhile sampling chef Norio Nomoto’s more imaginative creations. King crunchy rolls add a certain level of spice and texture to conventional maki, without degenerating into fusion-style gimmickry. Yellowtail dreams is another good bet, offering thin, carpacciolike slices of fish with a nicely tangy sauce. For those seeking a little warmth, cooked selections range across tasty grilled eel, peppery chicken kara-age and luxurious matsuzaka beef with ponzu sauce. Dessert options include deep-fried green-tea ice cream, and splendidly tart fruit sherbets.

About a dozen good-quality labels, most available by the glass. Also a fine selection of sake and shochu.