WHY GO? Owner Fujii Yasuyaki makes a better job than most of setting up a little corner of Japan in Bangkok, with food, setting and service in elegant equilibrium. From the best tables, artfully distressed leather sofas offer a view onto a Japanese garden complete with mini-waterfall.

WHAT TO ORDER? Arguably Bangkok’s best Japanese restaurant, Ten-Sui offers innovation and surprises without neglecting the staples. A seasonal kaiseki menu offers a representative selection of the chef’s repertoire, but even a random trawl of the a la carte choices will come up with some glorious discoveries. Sashimi is meltingly fresh, with mackerel particularly good, and featherlight tempura may be the best in town. Salmon eggs add a salty surprise to an otherwise soothing chawan mushi (savoury custard). Chicken yakitori transcends its street food origins, becoming an object of culinary beauty. Zaru soba is cool and perfectly al dente. Sensation seekers might seek out marinated octopus, grilled horse sushi or whale bacon hot pot. Yoghurt semifreddo is the pick of the desserts.

Only nine wines, including a rather special Saint- Estephe, but a fine selection of sake and an even wider range of shochu.