WHY GO? The Bangkok outpost of Henrik YdeAndersen’s Michelin-starred wonderland takes Thai food into the 21st century with wit and invention. The dark wood-lined room is coolly elegant, as is the service.

WHAT TO ORDER? The six- and 10-course set menus, which change every few months, present dishes that are identifiably Thai, but not quite like anything you’ve tasted elsewhere, with clear influences from molecular gastronomy. Tom kha kai (chicken soup) is served alongside peanut ice cream, offering intense contrasts in temperature as well as flavour, while the lemongrass tang of tom yum might be rendered as a jelly or a coriander-flecked foam. Five-spice pork appears as ravioli, and lifting the lid from a dish of Chiang Mai sausage provokes a gust of charcoal smoke. The surprises continue to the dessert course, as baked pineapple conceals a layer of popping candy. Sra Bua will baffle or even outrage conservatives and purists, but others will enjoy a culinary experience that is utterly and delightfully different.

Not a long list, but bottles are well chosen to complement Thai spices; after all Andersen is a former sommelier. Optional wine and juice menus are designed to accompany the set meal.