Long overshadowed by its grape-based relative in modern times, apple cider is regaining lost ground as casual drinkers and connoisseurs alike rediscover this ancient and most enjoyable alternative to wine, reveals Dominic Rivard

Among all fruits, few are more celebrated, few have been cultivated more widely and few can rival the long history of use and enjoyment of the apple, especially among the civilisations of Europe and Asia. Along with simply biting into one or baking it in a pie, one of this jolly and storied orb’s most popular uses is to make cider.

In the UK alone, 45 percent of all apples grown will be fermented into the delicious amber liquid. The earliest record of cider production dates back to the Celts of ancient Britain who made it with crab apples. Since then, alcoholic ciders have been produced throughout the world and flourished in regions and areas not broadly conducive to grape production. In English society as recently as a 100 years ago, the drink was so important that workers’ wages commonly included a cider ration. After a long spell of being overtaken by grape wine cider is now surging in popularity and in many regions is taking a large bite out of beer and even wine markets. The fastest growing segment of the alcohol beverage industry, unpretentious cider gives drinkers an enjoyable product that is refreshing and has health benefits along with intriguing connotations of terroir and tradition.

Just as with wine, ciders are made in small artisan batches, often with apples organically grown on family farms, or in large-scale industrial quantities with apple juice concentrate. The largest traditional producers of quality ciders are the UK, France, Spain and Germany, however, ciders are now being made in South Africa, various Asian countries, the USA and Canada.

As with grapes, the many apple varieties and their flavours cover a wide spectrum. For example, Europe grows over 350 different types of apples and most of them are used to make cider, many of which are available in Thailand. Ciders appeal to Thai palates that prefer drinks with a lighter and crisper character and complement the local cuisine better than many wines, so they will likely grow in popularity here. You can find a good range of ciders at the better pubs and wine shops in Bangkok and following are the varieties available.

Draft cider: This is the most widely available style and the most easily found in Bangkok. It usually has an alcohol level around 5 percent and is enjoyed cold like beer. A refreshing drink on a hot day it goes well with traditional Western fare.

Farmhouse “scrumpy” cider:Also known as English dry cider it is usually available directly from cider farms that make it from old tannic English varieties and may be cloudy. This style, which can take some getting used to, is complex and the closest you can get to tasting the apple’s terroir.

French cider: Also known as cidre doux, this drink is popular in France and parts of England and Canada. Available in some wine shops in Bangkok French cider has residual sweetness and is lower in alcohol than other styles. It tends to be popular with women who prefer lower alcohol-content drinks

Sparkling cider: This style is usually carbonated in the traditional way, very similar to champagne, and is sold in the same style of bottles used for sparkling wine. It is higher in alcohol than most ciders and has a higher degree of carbonation than in sparkling wine.

Cyser: This one has had honey added to it. The production process is much longer than other styles and the ageing potential is good, with the cider increasing in complexity and character

Apfelwein: A very popular drink in Germany, apfelwein is the traditional drink of the Frankfurt region. Fermented to a very dry level and a little bitter in the finish it is available in every pub in Frankfurt and is widely celebrated.

Perry: Gaining in popularity, perry is made from pears. More delicate in taste and aroma than apple cider, it is usually produced in small quantities in the artisan style. If you are lucky enough to find some it’s certainly worth a try.

Pommeau: This is a slightly sweet, reddishamber liqueur made by blending calvados (distilled apple cider) with fresh sweet cider. The high alcohol content of the calvados stops the fermentation of the apple juice and renders an aromatic and fresh fortified drink of 16 to 18 percent alcohol. It is then oak aged for 18 months or more before bottling. Pommeau is served as an aperitif and goes well with cheese.

Apple wine: A cider that is chaptilised (extra sugar is added to the juice prior to fermentation) and fermented to a higher alcohol level, it is similar to grape wine. Very popular in Canada and parts of Northern Europe, well-made apple wine resembles a light chardonnay and can be paired with the same cuisine that you enjoy with white wines.

Ice cider: A recent entry in the cider world from Canada, home of the world’s best ice wines, this version is made by freezing the juice and separating the water from it. This produces an intensely flavoured and sweet dessert wine. A very expensive drink as it takes about 80 apples to make just one 375 ml bottle, it is available at duty-free shops in most large airports and finer wine shops.