WHY GO? One of the oldest steakhouses in Bangkok, Neil’s has a lot of old school charm with its dark tavern atmosphere and tuxedoed staff. Food and service are at a journeyman rather than master level, but diners, with the appropriate level of expectation, can have a pleasant experience. There’s also a bakery with a large selection of cakes and pastries to take away.

WHAT TO ORDER? Pan-seared foie gras with fruits and balsamic and raspberry sauce is nicely done and a great way to start. Pate de foie gras is smooth and creamy, but a tad sweet, perhaps tuned to the Thai palate. If USDA prime New York steak is ordered the waiter brings rather thin, frozen, plastic-wrapped and price-tagged pieces of meat to choose from: the results, when grilled, are adequate but not outstanding. A better choice is Australian beef, such as steak a la Neil with wine sauce, very good tenderloin expertly cooked to order. Desserts are standard steakhouse fare, from cheesecake to crepes. Baked alaska with blueberries is a deliciously decadent indulgence.

A limited list of Old and New World wines. The most expensive is at the midrange price level.