WHY GO? In a city that loves its food, chefs Matthias and Thomas Suhring take the cuisine to the next dimension, abetted by smart, crisp service, fabulous views of the city and a pretty good string quartet.

WHAT TO ORDER? Mezzaluna has recently relaunched its operation, replacing the a la carte selection with a three-course set dinner and a six-course chef’s tasting menu. Specific dishes will change on a regular basis according to the availability of top-end ingredients. The tasting menu might include Japanese mackerel in peppery tomato broth, or perhaps sweet-tasting Rhone lamb with even sweeter parsley root mash. Soulard duck responds well to a double-fungus hit of black truffle and hedgehog mushroom. An indulgent dessert of Valrhona chocolate cake gets a grown-up kick of sourness from goat's cheese mousse. It is all immaculately prepared and presented, but even with amuse-bouches and predesserts, a hungry diner may not be entirely satisfied.

A well thought-out, multinational list, with a distinct bias to the expensive and exclusive, up to a 500,000-baht-plus Romanee-Conti.