WHY GO? This elegant, ground-floor restaurant is still one of the very best Cantonese places in town, thanks to chef Jackie Ho’s expertise and a waiting staff that’s efficient and charming even when the place is deservedly busy.

WHAT TO ORDER? It is always worth starting with dim sum, ranging from the standard (crystal prawn dumplings) to the more left-field (scallops with gau choi, or maybe pork in shaoxing rice wine). Peking duck is superb, although Mei Jiang doesn’t offer quarter or half portions, so it’s quite challenging for fewer than four people. Mahogany skin and tender meat is served in coriander-flecked pancakes with nicely caramely sauce; as a second course, try the remaining flesh chopped small and mixed with pine nuts and mushrooms, in crisp lettuce leaves. Alternatives to duck include snowfish with salted limes, or prawns in an intoxicating port wine sauce. Portions are generous, so a light, soothing dessert – mango pudding, or perhaps sago with pomelo – is a judicious choice to round off a superlative feast.

Diners have access to the hotel’s outstanding list, which ranges from affordable labels to deeply serious bordeaux. Also an excellent tea selection.