WHY GO? A new general manager, a new chef and a new vibe sees Liu approach its teen years with aplomb. Located at the Conrad Hotel, the restaurant has been operating since 2002. Decorated in pseudo-imperial decor, the setting is nothing to write home about but with the new direction, the lights are dimmed, the mood is enhanced and the service retains its excellence.

WHAT TO ORDER? There is the usual fare of Chinese delicacies from peking duck to shark’s fin soup, both of which are excellent. Those wanting to try something different should consider braised abalone with oyster sauce, which should be praised for its texture and its concept. The menu is very much in transition, but judging from the chef’s willingness to use different materials and ingredients, the direction is a very exciting one indeed, making Liu one to watch out for in 2011.

Two pages of wines, offering nothing special, but more than adequate by the standards of many Chinese restaurants.