WHY GO? For the setting in the all-white colonial-style wooden house redesigned to accommodate up to 50 diners but mainly for the extraordinary culinary talents of straight-talking chef and owner Gaggan Anand.

WHAT TO ORDER? The food served here is progressive Indian cuisine, modern creations inspired by molecular gastronomy with traditional touches. A light and fascinating starter is Lost Jewel, slow-roasted rare Kashmiri morel mushroom stuffed with green peas. River king prawns in a red chilli marinade finished in the tandoor is more traditional for those less adventurous. The When India Met Italy section offers pasta and risotto dishes served with charming twists; truffle treasure is spiced ravioli with coriander and red onions in a soup explosion. Meanwhile, Britain’s National Dish, chicken tikka masala, is best eaten with the heavenly plain and truffle naan. Desserts are creative too: Up In Smoke sees fresh vanilla ice cream with coffee smoked in a glass dome. A Taste of Gaggan with kulfi figs and sundried figs is less spectacular but just as pleasing.

Gaggan’s small but well thought-out selection consists of some excellent and expensive wines but the prices range mainly from 3,000-4,000 baht per bottle. You can’t go wrong as the wines are chosen to match the food served.