9-10 The very best | 7-8 Excellent | 5-6 Very good | 3-4 Fair | 1-2 Poor
WHY GO? For the setting in the all-white colonial-style
wooden house redesigned to accommodate up to 50
diners but mainly for the extraordinary culinary talents
of straight-talking chef and owner Gaggan Anand.
WHAT TO ORDER?
The food served here is progressive
Indian cuisine, modern creations inspired by molecular
gastronomy with traditional touches. A light and
fascinating starter is Lost Jewel, slow-roasted rare
Kashmiri morel mushroom stuffed with green peas.
River king prawns in a red chilli marinade finished in the
tandoor is more traditional for those less adventurous.
The When India Met Italy section offers pasta and risotto
dishes served with charming twists; truffle treasure is
spiced ravioli with coriander and red onions in a soup
explosion. Meanwhile, Britain’s National Dish, chicken
tikka masala, is best eaten with the heavenly plain and
truffle naan. Desserts are creative too: Up In Smoke
sees fresh vanilla ice cream with coffee smoked in a
glass dome. A Taste of Gaggan with kulfi figs and sundried
figs is less spectacular but just as pleasing.
Gaggan’s small but well
consists of some excellent and
expensive wines but the prices
range mainly from 3,000-4,000
baht per bottle. You can’t go
wrong as the wines are chosen
to match the food served.