WHY GO? While not as flamboyant as some of its French contemporaries in Chiang Mai, outdoor restaurant Cote Jardin makes up for this with its personable approach to dining and utterly pervasive Frenchness. Each day the chef browses the markets, decides on a menu, which he then chalks on a board in French; later he explains it in passionate detail to each of his guests in English.

WHAT TO ORDER? As the menu is fairly sporadic at Cote Jardin, the home-style French cuisine can always take repeat customers by surprise. Chef’s home-made pate is a regular on the starter menu, as is fish scallops served in rich cream sauce with small parcels of pastry. Cote Jardin serves hearty meals, so you may want to start with something lighter, such as salmon carpaccio with a lemon marinade. For a main course sample dishes such as strips of mouth-watering duck meat with a side of potato gratin, succulent lamb couscous, the ubiquitous choice of beef steak, or a staple offering of country-style French stews.

The wine list is unsatisfying though inexpensive; it is recommended to bring your own.