WHY GO? A pleasant converted house in the former ground of Dinsor Palace, the red and white interior is decorated with black and white photographs of Prince Bira and grand prix racing.

WHAT TO ORDER? Fresh ingredients are imported weekly from France. The specialities of the house are foie gras, Royal Brittany blue lobster and 400-day grain-fed wagyu chateaubriand. Pan-fried escalope of duck foie gras is beautifully cooked, its richness offset by granny smith apples and fondant salsify. Snails cooked three ways sees escargots served in three glasses with parsley butter, tomato sauce and duck liver. Chateaubriand is a dish to share. Lean tenderloin cooked with maitre d’hotel butter is dark brown on the outside, then sliced to reveal pink and red in the centre. This sublime meat is tender, juicy and full of flavour. If you still have room, a variety of raw milk cheeses served with raisins and walnuts is a good ending but variations of chocolates – a combination of mousse, tuiles, ice cream in soup – might be even better.

Not a large selection: mainly French with some New World wines and organic vintages.