Our wine editor’s
perfect case of
wine includes
(from left to
right) 2008
Scarecrow, 2009
Jasper Hill Shiraz
Heathcote
Georgia’s
Paddock, 2004
Penfolds Barossa
Valley Kalimna
Block 42, 2007
Sine Qua Non
Grenache Central
Coast Dangerous
Birds, 2008
Tenuta
dell’Ornellaia
Toscana Masseto
James Suckling chooses the top 12 wines from the
thousands he tasted in 2011
Last year, i tasted more than 6,000 wines. they were
primarily wines from Bordeaux, Italy, Australia and California.
It was a cruel task. I tasted most of the wines in blind tastings all
over the world, from the depths of Bordeaux to the outback of
Australia. But I found some amazing wines. And I found 12 that are my
Wines of the Year – or my perfect case of wine to buy.
James Suckling
raises a glass
My list is simply my top scoring wines in 2011.
I didn’t take into account case quantities, price,
availability or anything else. There are seven
wines with perfect scores of 100 points and five
with 99 points.
Last November, I attended the wine trade fair
Wine Future 2011 in Hong Kong. Together with
fellow wine critic Robert Parker, I tasted 20 of the
top Bordeaux from the 2011 vintage. One wine
stood out as the wine of the tasting – the 2009
Cos d’Estournel, the famous second growth of St
Estèphe. I scored it a perfect 100 points. The combination
of ripe and wonderful fruit, bright fresh
acidity and super refined tannins was unequalled.
It’s no surprise that I chose a 2009 Bordeaux
as my best wine in 2011. It is the greatest modern
vintage ever for France’s premier wine region,
surpassing such years as 1982, 1989, 1990, 2000
and 2005, and it’s among the legends such as 1864,
1865, 1899, 1900, 1929, 1945 and 1961.
I’m sure I will find many more perfect 2009
Bordeaux because the vintage is so special. I loved the Cos d’Estournel ever since I tasted it from barrel in Spring 2010.
It was so intense and fruity on the nose, with exotic aromas and a
captivating depth. Smelling it was like walking into a spice merchant’s
stall in an open market in Morocco. It was full bodied, with
a dense tannin and fruit structure; yet it was balanced, fresh and
persistent. It was a perfect wine then, as it is now.
My choice of Wine of the Year underlines how Bordeaux historically
makes ripe, rich and structured wines that are at the same time
agile and fresh. And they have the pedigree to age for centuries.
Nowhere else on Earth has that history – current and past.
The head of Cos, Jean-Guillaume Prats, told me the 2009 has an
alcohol content of 14.8 per cent and a pH of 3.58. That means the
wine is rich in alcohol, yet incredibly strong in acidity. It’s balanced.
And it’s also why the wine remains so fresh. One of the greatest
Bordeaux of all time – 1947 Cheval Blanc – had similar alcohol levels
and acidity. I wonder if the 2009 Cos will one day become such
a legend?
The first wine on my list, alphabetically, is the 2006 Casanova di
Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova. This is a vineyard-specific
wine from the Giacomo Neri family and proves how fabulous
2006 was for Brunello, and Tuscany at large. Its raciness in structure
is a tribute to the greatness of the region.
The next wine after the Cos d’Estournel in
the list is a discovery for me, since I only took my
first tasting trip to Australia recently. The 2009
Jasper Hill Shiraz Heathcote Georgia’s Paddock
(100 points) shows that the wine continent makes
wonderful reds with bold flavours, yet fresh and
deep. Jasper Hill is a fully-fledged biodynamic
wine estate based in Heathcote, in the southern
state of Victoria.
The 2004 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon
Barossa Valley Kalimna Block 42 (100 points) is
more rare than the Jasper Hill Shiraz, but equally
compelling to taste. The Block 42 is part of
Penfolds’ “Special Bin” programme and made
from vines planted in the mid-1880s, which are
still alive and flourishing on their own rootstock.
These are what some believe to be the oldest
Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world. About
500 cases were made. It’s only been made twice –
in 2004 and 1996.
The 2007 Roberto Voerzio La Serra Barolo
(100 points) was a slight surprise for me when I
tasted it in the spring. Usually, I prefer his Brunate
vineyard, which is located below the town of
La Morra, in the heart of Piedmont. But the hot
and dry weather in 2007 slightly favoured the
Nebbiolo growing in the less southwest-facing
La Serra. Roberto, arguably Italy’s greatest vine
growing expert, agrees wholeheartedly.
The next two wines on the list – 2007 Sine Qua Non Grenache Central Coast Dangerous Birds (100 points)
and 2007 Sine Qua Non Syrah Central Coast Dangerous Birds
(100 points) – are from winemaking genius Manfred Krankl. The
Austrian-born winemaker underlines how the Central Coast of
California is now the most exciting region in the state. And his
wines are bold and powerful reds, yet bright and focused.
Two famous 2009 Bordeaux follow –
2009 Chateau La Fleur-
Petrus Pomerol (99 points) and 2009 Chateau Leoville Las Cases
St-Julien (99 points). The former is a benchmark in Pomerol, showing
the brilliance of the special area of the region. It is one of the
leading estates in the Holy Grail for merlot. The latter is one of the
most structured and formidable wines in the Medoc.
California’s Napa Valley made great wines in 2008, even though
almost everyone prefers 2007. The wines have a little more firmness
and balance than the fruit forward of 2007. The mountain vineyard
wine of Colgin Cellars IX Estate (99 points) shows a fabulous
backbone of polished tannins, as well as a gorgeous depth of fruit.
Also from Napa Valley, the 2008 Scarecrow (99 points) is broader
shouldered, which comes from being produced from incredible old,
head-pruned vines on the valley floor.
The 2008 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Toscana Masseto (99 points)
finishes off my ultimate case of current released wines I tasted
this year. The pure merlot shows layers of fabulous fruit and
polished tannins. In some vintages, such as 2008, it is the greatest
merlot on Earth.
Buy one bottle, or several cases, of any of the wines above, and
you are sure to have a fabulous wine experience. Here’s to more of
the same in the year ahead.
Visit James Suckling at: www.jamessuckling.com