WHY GO? Aubergine is based in a smart but welcoming colonial-style house, with four separate dining areas. This is the place to go for good, honest, slightly old- fashioned French cooking, with few frills or gimmicks. Service is crisp and helpful, although some might consider it over-attentive.

WHAT TO ORDER? Soups are a good bet; perhaps lobster bisque, properly thickened with shell, or sweetly pungent onion soup with just the right amount of gooey cheese. Garlicky escargots and frog’s legs are further options. For mains, perhaps consider tender rabbit stew, its subtle flavours accentuated by mustard; or pan-fried sea bass, which refuses to be swamped by the accompanying tapenade and ratatouille. Classics such as duck confit and coq au vin are also available, along with several good steak options. For dessert, crepes suzette, prepared tableside with great panache, tastes and smells as good as it looks, butter and citrus merging in a delicious caramely ooze. For those not so fond of pyrotechnics, perfectly sour/sweet lemon tart in fabulously crisp pastry is recommended.

Over 100 wines, predominantly but not exclusively French, and plenty under 2,000 baht. Clarets are particularly well represented.