Serving Teochew cuisine since 1969, Huat Kee is an institution of sorts. Starting out as a roadside stall and by 1993, it evolved into an up-market restaurant. The restaurant now spans two units on Amoy Street — 73, the plain lunch room with caligraphy hanging on the walls and rounds tables covered in white linen, and 74, the newly renovated space sporting atmospheric down lights and a rather impressive wall of wine chillers.

The majority of smart suits there for lunch the weekday we visited seemed to know exactly what they were there for, while the odd table of tourists or first-time visitors were given expert advise from the rather matronly wait-staff, all ready to plan a menu made up of the restaurant’s signatures. On their recommendations, we ordered a cold platter of sliced braised goose meat, Teochew prawn roll, jellyfish salad, Teochew style spring rolls and pork leg jelly. Sadly, none of the dishes stood out. The dish of oyster omelette fared much better: studded with plump, succulent oysters, the light omelette was addictive when eaten with the housemade garlic-chilli sauce.We had anticipated the Teochew-style steamed pomfret – a must-have at any Teochew meal – to be the highlight of the meal. The fleshy fish arrived almost submerged in a piquant broth, and the flesh was cooked to perfect firmness. A highlight for us was Huat Kee’s famous or nee— a creamy yam paste cooked with a sinful amount of fat. Perfectly smooth in texture, decadently rich in flavour, and topped generously with ginko nuts, it was excellent. Huat Kee retains its rustic charm in terms of décor style, service and menu. And that little bit of the past preserved here is perhaps just why we continue to love the place. 74 Amoy Street. Tel: 6423-4477

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