Gourmet meals, friendly prices, a hip neighbourhood. Newly opened ODP in Tiong Bahru Estate stands for Open Door Policy, a collaboration between Spa Esprit entrepreneur Cynthia Chua, Tippling Club chef Ryan Clift, and 40 Hands barista Harry Grover. It's a place for diners who want artisanal comfort food such as risotto and duck confit, and fine coffees, in a setting that is refreshingly industrial and laidback for regular visits.

The starters are balanced between red meats and vegetarian options, including Mediterranean-inspired halloumi cheese with olives, white anchovies and crusty bread, as well as a finely honed steak tartare with truffled mayo and potato chips - the tenderloin is not pulverised to mince, offering the chance to enjoy the meat's lovely texture and chew. Big eaters should chance on the generous puff pastry pizzetta of lamb confit with a cucumber salad garnish, while salad lovers will enjoy the visual appeal of a green-and white assembly of crisp spinach, broccoli, snap pea and goat's cheese.

Mains are reasonably sized to have as a single-course meal, with choices such as pork belly with parsnip puree, or the superlative duck leg confit done casserole style, with puy lentils, sage and smoked bacon - traditionally executed for the most tender, aromatic results. Salmon, which can be a rather bland ingredient, is here roasted yet still fork-tender, accompanied a tangy panzanella salad of tomatoes. Wild mushroom risotto with truffle crumbs from the vegetarian menu deserves kudos for hitting all the right notes.

Our choice of dessert is the appreciably predictable chocolate and pistachio souffle, though more edgy options include white chocolate mousse with raspberry ‘headache' accompaniments, as well as the "Why Just Sunday" ice cream and chocolate sponge cake, served in a Korean stone bowl.

19 Yong Siak Street, 6221 9307, www.odpsingapore.com

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