The corner gathering is now literal, in the form of L'Angolo - ‘the corner' in Italian. The new restaurant takes over the defunct Osvaldo's charming, airy premises at Maxwell Chambers, with young chef-partner Guilano Dacasto at the helm. At just 31, he's chalked up 17 years of experience, most recently at Gordon Ramsay's Boxwood Café, and his cuisine is an exercise in creativity. Complementing the youthful enthusiasm is maitre d' and sommelier Michele Carbotti, who proudly presents150 Italian labels decently priced from $60 to $1,200. If small-batch wines from Puglia or Abruzzo tickle your fancy, Carbotti's extensive connections to local producers will likely come in handy.

From the antipasti menu, blue swimmer crabmeat rolls are colourfully encased in red and yellow capsicum.  The pastas are all made in-house, which results in an enjoyable al dente bite. The stand-outs are buffalo mozzarella cream ravioli shaped into cappelleti - bishop's hats - holding a mince of pork and Parma ham, as well as the earthy tagliatelle with classic chantarelles and summer truffle. For mains, seafood lovers have the pan-roasted black cod, kept moist and simple with mash potato and porcini mushroom. The same saffron mash can be found in the slow-cooked beef cheek in Amarone red wine sauce - a fork-tender rendition, lashed in veal jus, of a winter favourite. For dessert, the chef presents his favourite comfort food - apples done two ways, in a light butter sponge cake and layer of baked apple slices, served with vanilla ice-cream.  

L'Angolo is located at #01-03 Maxwell Chambers, 32 Maxwell Road, 6224 0978, www.langolo.com.sg

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