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With gastropubs becoming more popular in Singapore (like the recently opened Jackson Plan in Duxton Hill), La Cicala Gastro Bar on Club Street is a newcomer to the scene. Taking over the space venerable IndoChine once occupied, this casual chic eatery serves up an international selection of food heavily influenced by Spanish gastronomy.
In the kitchen, Chef de Cuisine Edwin Lau, formerly from St Regis Singapore, has created several dishes with unexpected twists - in particular, the chopitos, deep fried baby squid with saffron tartar sauce, is a lovely surprise that's tender and sweet to eat, especially for someone that doesn't like squid. The octopus though, was on the other end of the scale. Somehow the octopus with smoked potato didn't seem like the right mix and the pimenton could barely be tasted.
La Cicala does offer a unique twist on the paella - a fideua which is made with short noodle pasta instead of rice and prepared similarly to risotto, which gives it an infused flavour of white wine and seafood. Though unique, the taste fell slightly flat, somewhat a little one dimensional.
The real stand-outs of this gastropub though, have to be their cocktails and grilled items. The spicy salsa, a heady concoction of fresh capsicum, Tabasco and gin is one that will either have you clamouring for more, or running away as fast as you can. Spicy, warm and really refreshing, this a great way to start a night of tapas and drinks with friends.
Another item new to the drinks menu is the Lustau East India Solera sherry. Redolent of Christmas fruit cakes, it smells sweet with an alcoholic tang created by the aged dry Oloroso and aged Pedro Ximenez that goes into this particular sherry. Oh-so-easy to drink, this is one you can easily finish several bottles of during a night out. Their wine cellar is also stocked with plenty of gems that may not be from classic vineyards so ask Eduardo Ortega, the restaurant manager, for some recommendations.
For the grilled items, ask for the lamb, which is cooked sous vide style and skewered with shallots and garlic, and the juicy meatballs, made from kurobuta pork with Iberico fat and a touch of mint.
This cosy gastro pub has plenty of potential, but may just need a little more time.
La Cicala Gastro Bar, 49 Club Street. Tel: 6534-8812.
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