With dedicated lunch and dinner kaiseki menus, KUMO is a uniquely placed restaurant to discover this graceful art of Japanese seasonal dining. Executive Chef Hirohashi Nobuaki mastered the art of sushi at an early age in his father's sushi shop in Osaka, then went on to apprentice under Kyoto's famed kaiseki practitioner, Teiichi Yuki. At just over a year old, the restaurant imparts a nature theme, with water features, tree trunks and pine-lined tatami settings that sets the scene for the artful dishes that follow.

At our visit, we were treated to a summer omakase kaiseki menu that comprised seven dishes specially prepared by Nobuaki, based on freshly available ingredients and his interpretation of our preferences. The appetiser that appeared was tako no sunomono - cold summer octopus that was delightfully accompanied by chef's touches of jellied vinegar, ladies' fingers and myoga ginger flower. The harmony of flavours in a beautiful bowl elevated the dish, and was a good introduction to the art of kaiseki, especially for first-time diners. Following this was a grilled tai (sea bream) with firm handmade sesame ‘tofu' in bonito soup with rings of delicate summer yuzu. The zest and fragrance of the yuzu perfumed each mouthful of soup, enhancing the clear bonito stock that was a refreshing alternative to miso-based soups. Each of the courses that followed was expertly prepared, from the tempura of anago sea eel and fig, to a luscious stewed dish of Kurobota pork rib. Dessert is not forgotten, as a refined and dense matcha cheesecake was matched with in-house mint ice cream, a combination that could not be more refreshing.

The sake and wine list was created with the delicate cuisine in mind, which is why you will find premium options such as the bijoufu junmai ginjyo junrei, a semi-dry elegant tipple with rice polished ratio of 55 per cent. Many of the sakes are available by tasting portions. However, if you would like to enjoy more of the sake, the restaurant holds monthly events. The Tohoku northeastern sake event takes place on 29 June and details are available here.

KUMO Kaiseki, 12 Gopeng Street, #01-58 Icon Village, 6225 8433 or www.kumokaiseki.com.sg

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