It’s a sensual ingredient that numbs the tongue and lips, sends a wave of fire through the throat and produces sweat at the temple, and then leaves one feeling surprisingly euphoric, eager for more. We’ve all experienced this – and we know there is no substitute for the flavour and enticingly seductive appeal of chillies and spicy foods.

In Asia, chilli is a part of our mainstay daily diet. We find it in our favourite local foods: from chilli crab to curries. There are other spicy ingredients such as wasabi, horseradish, ginger, mustards, and Szechuan pepper that we are also familiar with. These too, impart a great deal of physical discomfort followed by a numbing wave of sheer delight. But what is it exactly about chillies and other hot spices that make us want to go back for more?

Tears of Pain are Tears of Joy

It has been proven by scientists that the human brain actually releases endorphins when chilli is consumed. So those tears you feel coming down your cheeks when eating a fiery chilli padi are really tears of joy … sort of.

The thing that gives chillies their heat is a chemical compound called ‘capsaicinoids’ – hence the genus name ‘capsicums’ which chillies belong to. This compound is found in the membrane on the inside walls of all chillies. (Contrary to popular belief, the seeds are not the principal source of heat.) Flavourless and odourless, capsaicin is responsible for the many times we helplessly ‘fan’ our mouths to try to cool down and regain sensation on our tongues. As soon as a bite of chilli is taken, capsaicin arouses and triggers the body’s trigeminal cells – pain receptors in our mouth, nose and stomach.

These receptors then release a chemical known ambiguously as ‘substance P’ into the blood stream, alerting the brain that something hot has been digested. The brain’s response? Flush it out! And release natural morphine to stop the pain!

Reacting immediately, the body starts to sweat, eyes begin to well up, the nose runs and blood circulation increases. This makes the heart beat faster and release adrenalin. It is this ultimate crescendo, this fine line of physical pain mixed with the mental high, which chilli addicts are attracted to.

The Evolutionary Ring of Fire

It is not sheer coincidence that most countries with warmer climates and that are close to the equator have spicy diets. Consuming these foods actually regulates body temperature – as the body sweats, it effectively brings the inner body temperature down.

In 1912, a man named Wilbur Scoville invented a rating system for testing chillies. Chilli extracts were diluted in sugar water until the heat – measured in Scoville Heat Units – was no longer detectable by a panel of trained (and very brave) tasters.

As this system was so highly subjective, a new laboratory test – High Pressure Liquid Chromatography – was invented to replace it. In the same manner as a centrifuge machine functions, a chilli solution is placed inside a chromatograph machine. Under high pressure, the machine separates the capsaicinoids from the volume of liquid.

The Chile Pepper Institute of New Mexico State University has tested literally hundreds of chillies. Bell peppers or capsicums, score 0 Scoville Units; bird’s eye between 50,000 – 100,000 units; and habenero chillies can range anywhere from 100,000 – 350,000 units, depending on their age and region, and a chilli addict’s luck. (A complete list can be found on their website –www. chilepepperinstitute.org)

Wasssup-bi and the King of Spice

Similar to the effects of chillies on our bodies, when wasabi, ginger or white horseradish is consumed, the release of ethereal fire in the mouth is extremely pungent. The effects, though, are quite short-lived and the nasal passage is affected more so than when we eat chillies. You feel the burn travel from the top of your mouth straight up your nose. It’s tangible, sharp and highly addictive.

Fresh wasabi, not the bright limegreen paste (which is made from white horseradish, mustard, cornstarch and food colouring) we see in most Japanese eateries, is particularly rare to find. This nubby, light green root gets both its heat and distinguishable flavour from its natural occurring chemical compound, isothiocyanates.

White horseradish is milder and slightly bitter; and, depending on the age and region, ginger can range from zesty sweet to lemony, earthy and fresh. To release their aroma, causes salivation and activates gastric juices in the stomach.

Historically, as stated in Larousse, peppercorns were used to conceal the tastes of gamey meats and boiled dishes. It’s no wonder then we find their use indispensable in savoury sauces and dishes today (or on a well-seasoned piece of steak).

Gloves On

Depending on how much and what kind of heat you are looking to add to a dish, the variety of chillies, acerbic roots or peppercorns are seemingly endless.

Chillies can be sweet and fruity once the membrane is removed. When dried, they impart a smoky, warm flavour to dishes. When using fresh chillies though, it is sensible to use a pair of gloves if handling any variety hotter than a chili padi.

It’s advisable to taste just a small bite of chilli, horseradish or ginger before adding it to your dish to judge the heat level. Gulp down some milk or eat a spoonful of yoghurt if you happen to get ‘chilli burn’.

True wasabi aficionados recommend that fresh wasabi should be grated only 15 to 20 minutes before use. The reason is that the longer a cut side is exposed to air, the less flavour and pungency it retains – high-end sushi restaurants usually serve wasabi with a sharkskin grater on the side because of this.

The Fiery Addiction

We could pull out Hervé This’ scientific Molecular Gastronomy book to explain in depth why we love our spicy foods so much, which will probably take us a few days. But to keep it short and sweet, chillies, pepper, wasabi, mustard all add a depth of flavour to our many dishes.

Without them, most of Asia’s cuisines would be bland and characterless. Could you imagine chicken rice without its amazing chilli and ginger sauce accompaniment? Or nasi lemak without piquant sambal? We dare not even imagine Japanese cuisine without wasabi. Sushi would not be the same!

It’s clear why we continue to consume these spices that cause as much pain as they do pleasure. They’re an addiction; and this addiction, like any other, is hard to beat.

HOT FACTS

• To date, the hottest chilli in the world is the Naga Jolokia from Northeast India. Its name means “king cobra chilli” and it is also known as the “ghost chilli” among locals.
• When rinsed under water, hot chillies release a peppery gas.
• Dairy products help to remove the heat from chillies because they contains the protein casein, which lifts and absorbs capsaicin off the tongue or skin.
• wasabi has the same effects to inhaling bath salts in that they greatly aggravate the nasal passage, researchers are experimenting with using wasabi as a smoke alarm for deaf people.
• When mixed with high-fat or oily ingredients, such as coconut, over a long period of time, black pepper undergoes a chemical reaction which can cause an unpleasant, soapy off-taste.

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