Fat Cow, like its sister establishment Kinki, is a witty concept in luxe urban dining. The "fat" in its name stands for luxury and indulgence, which it amply provides in the two cuts of Japanese Wagyu - A3 and A5, alongside Australian Wagyu grade MS8+ from Stockyard and Blackmore Ranch. Should your taste run to seafood, they also stock daily specials such as Alaskan king crab and a selection of seasonal fish for sashimi.

Walking into the warmly lit restaurant, you notice the latticework ceiling and handmade ceramic wall tiles - a nod to the spare, contemporary tone of the space. A cocktail room should not be missed for pre-dinner prandials by master mixologist Matt Radalj, most recently from Hong Kong's Republik. Choose from the menu of signatures for Hot Buttered Ume, or request a special concoction. 

There are five private dining rooms, as well as a main dining hall seating 40, and our favourite - the counter seats limited to just 14. There is easy bantering with the chefs, who will recommend one of four cooking methods for your cut of beef: shabu shabu, sukiyaki, charcoal grill, and teppan. Our choice was the Japanese Wagyu grade A3, a delicate cut that is thin sliced and quickly dunked in a mushroomy shabu shabu. The remainder of the broth is perfect for making into a more-ish porridge to end your meal with. Steak-lovers will likely aim for the charcoal grill, which gives the meat a distinct smoky crust.

Entrees are creatively stunning, including deceptively simple and crisp heart of palm salad, paired with citrus jelly and tangy onion, or the thinly sliced tai (snapper) carpaccio liberally sprinkled with black truffle enhancing the natural sweetness of the tai. A similar dish is found at Kinki, though using black truffle oil. Wagyu ox tendon and foie gras deserves a category of its own - the wagyu tendon is slow-cooked for two days, and together with sweet braised daikon and seared foie gras, melts in the mouth with the chef's buttery, savoury sauce. Desserts such as the warabi (fiddlehead fern) mochi and Japanese squash soup are a considerably sophisticated way to end the meal.

1 Orchard Boulevard, #01-01 Camden Medical Center, 6735 0308, www.fat-cow.com.sg

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