The space of Clifford's main dining area is compact but a generous 10m high ceiling lends it an air of grandeur. Designed by acclaimed Asian architect Andre Fu, the devil is truly in the details at this French restaurant — and we are not just talking about the interiors.

The menu may read simply, like that of a bistro with familiar offerings such as French onion soup, duck confit and lemon tart. At $45 for a three-course set lunch, and mid range prices for a la carte dishes, the pricing is also approachable. Yet Beurre D'Isigny – perhaps the best French butter one can have – and an addictively rich house-made pork rillette are served with their complimentary rolls, also made in house. And the truffle fries, crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside, are made with real truffles which are brought in weekly — rather than truffle scented oils that often lack the delicate nature of the real McCoy.

The fare classic, but some with a contemporary twist, such as the dish of compressed watermelon with a salad of basil, tomato and avocado, served with a lobster tail. Others are given a touch of luxe through accompaniments, such as a duck confit cooked for three hours, served with cloves of sweet French garlic and small copper pots of truffled mash. Dessert of lemon tart with raspberry gel and creme fraiche ice cream also impressed with its balance of sweet and tangy flavours. And to go with the food, there is a wide selection from the restaurant's 800-bottle wine library from which their personable sommelier is only too happy to give recommendations.

Set to "redefine brasserie chic", Clifford is a happy cross between a fine dining establishment and a casual bistro, taking the best of both: the attention to detail of the former and the inviting atmosphere of the latter. Clifford, The Fullerton Bay Hotel, 80 Collyer Quay. Tel: 6597 5288

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