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Wine » A Night with Château Mouton Rothschild

16 Sep 2009

A Night with Château Mouton Rothschild

The winery's chairman Xavier de Eizaguirre unveils some rare vintages at Petrus

By Peter Guy


Xavier De Eizaguirre, chairman of Baron Philippe de Rothschild
Xavier De Eizaguirre, chairman of Baron Philippe de Rothschild

 

Wine dinners in Hong Kong are common events in a town full of wine lovers. But, when Château Mouton Rothschild and their local distributor Jebsen Fine Wines decided to stage a dinner and tasting at the Island Shangri-La's Petrus, wine lovers took notice and it was no surprise that this event sold out quickly despite the addition of extra tables. Mouton rarely sponsors wine dinners simply because it has no need to promote its brand. But, the Bordeaux winery underscored its commitment by sending its chairman Xavier De Eizaguirre.

Besides being one of the world's most recognizable and collectable first growth wines, the Rothschild family itself has historical prominence. Mouton is one of the top wineries in Bordeaux and remains in the hands of the Rothschild family through the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild. Her father, Baron Philippe de Rothschild said, "Making wine is like making great art" and boldly commissioned famous artists such as Chagall, Picasso and Warhol to design a label for each vintage. Chairman Eizaguirre said, "The pleasure of drinking is more important than what you can say about it." And he couldn't be more accurate with the wine available that evening.

Chateau Aile D’Argent (2004) sauvignon blanc with lobster salad
Chateau Aile D’Argent (2004) sauvignon blanc with lobster salad
Boston lobster summer salad was a delightful pairing for the Château Aile D'Argent (2004), a Sauvignon Blanc produced in small quantities (about 1200 cases annually) by Mouton. Fermented in oak for nine months before barrelling, it displayed a rare combination of freshness and complexity mixed with hints of tropical fruit firmly controlled by the oak finish.

The fully developed Domaine De Baron'Arques (2003) was medium and full bodied enough to stand out against the richly flavoured Bordeaux red wine risotto. Ripe tannin bonded with red plums. Although Domaine de Baron'Arque comes from Saint Polycarpe (outside Bordeaux), it is produced with Mouton's care and skill setting a new standard for the region.

Château D'Armailhac (Pauillac, 1999) is a fifth growth varietal that isn't as well known as the other Mouton brands. It was served as a contrast to the Domaine, to show how careful blending of a fifth growth can yield a mature vintage evoking rich coffee and blackcurrants.

Château Mouton Rothschild (2003) and Château Mouton Rothschild (1999) were served alongside crispy organic duck egg and tomato concasse with marjoram. They are two of Mouton's better vintages; the 2003 exudes a nose of dark aromas with traces of coffee underlying textured fruit. The 1999 was even darker than the 2003, almost opaque with a unique nose of cedar and mint. Although it was enjoyable, the sommelier mentioned that it would probably peak in 2022.

Château Mouton Rothschild (1995) was probably the wine of the night. It was double decanted and breathed for four hours before the grilled rib eye, with smoked farm bacon and black truffle were served. A wonderful nose of espresso and eucalyptus was perfectly balanced by tannins resulting in a complex, full bodied, but smooth finish. The 1988 vintage was also served with this course to represent a medium bodied wine more biased towards a fruity nose mixed with dried herbs. Delicious and easy to drink even with beef. Finishing the night with a top vintage that was merely a first among equals was a powerful demonstration of the skill that lies behind Mouton-Rothschild.

Mouton-Rothschild wines mentioned above can be purchased from Jebsen Fine Wines Club. 

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