A full-height central wine cellar dominates the room like a glass jewellery box. Tables are well placed for privacy and generously scaled for sharing multiple dishes.

Zi Yat Heen is a Cantonese restaurant, but one with pleasant surprises. Case in point is the tender baked lamb chops with a slightly bitter coffee sauce. Not only is this dish Portuguese-inspired, it is served with a knife and fork to stress the eclecticism of Macanese dining. Other dishes are equally outstanding. Hearty soups are doubleboiled, as traditional Cantonese soups should be, to release the full flavours of their ingredients. Sautéed prawns with fragrant tea leaves are fresh and crunchy, scattered with fine leaves and garnished with deep-fried basil for brilliant colour juxtaposition. The bird’s nest is given the royal treatment in sautéed seasonal vegetables with macadamia nuts in a crispy taro shell. And finally, Zi Yat Heen’s dessert sampler provides a perfect ending to an excellent meal.

Zi Yat Heen’s wine list is one of the best in Macau, and includes a helpful glossary of terms to assist novices. The range is broad, creatively selected and expertly presented.

Wait staff are fluent in English,Cantonese, Putonghua and Portuguese, reflecting Zi Yat Heen’s international clientele and their high expectations.

A great bargain considering the five-star setting, food, wine and service. A meal for two excluding drinks is just more than MOP1,000.