Located on the 31st floor of the Regal Hong Kong hotel in Causeway Bay, Zeffirino boasts a buzzing, neon-accented view of the Hong Kong island cityscape. The décor is deliberately dated, part of the restaurant’s homage to the original Zeffirino’s that opened in Genoa in 1939. While the oversized lighting fixture on the ceiling borders precariously on gaudy, the dining furniture is charmingly vintage, upholstered in luxurious fabrics and featuring elegant curves. The expansive space and high ceilings allow for an intimate setting, and strains of live jazz set the scene for what is sure to be a romantic evening.

Diners with an appetite should try Zeffirino’s signature tasting menu (HK$788). Of the seven courses on this menu, the pasta dishes stand out in particular. The homemade three-coloured gnocchi filled with fontina cheese and tossed with black truffles is especially memorable. The cheese lends the pasta subtle flavour and texture while the truffle sauce complements the dish without being overwhelming. The homemade tagiatelle pasta with fresh lobster and cherry tomatoes is perfectly al dente, with a subtle sauce that brings out the freshness of the shellfish. The lamb chops with creamy black truffle sauce also deserve a special mention for being beautifully seasoned and grilled. The grilled tuna steak deglazed with limoncello and gratinated artichokes, however, is disappointing. The fish is overcooked and tough, and the limoncello sauce is syrupy rather than refreshing. From the rest of the menu, the signature “paffutello” of Zeffirino with light pesto cream (HK$238) is well-executed. The flavours are creamy, light and well-balanced and the pasta is perfectly cooked. The beef carpaccio with mesclun, sliced zucchini and chef’s dressing (HK$198), on the other hand, falls below standard. The thin slices of beef are still frozen, making for an icy and unpalatable appetiser.

Zeffirino’s wine list is heavy on Bordeaux, supported by a few varietals each from Spain, Chile, Australia, South Africa, New Zealand and California. The list includes information on Robert Parker ratings as well as which wines were listed in Wine Spectator magazine.

The service at Zeffirino’s contributes a good deal to the dining experience. The wait staff is pleasant, helpful and willing to arrange for wine samplings and ingredient substitutions to suit your taste.

Dinner for comes out to about HK$800 per person, excluding wine. The city views and attentive service allow for a comfortable dining experience.