There are many good reasons to head to Yunyan but its interior design would not be one of them. The Sichuan restaurant is located in the busy Miramar mall in Tsim Sha Tsui, and although it does not boast a view or jaw dropping decor the interior is welcoming and the location unarguably convenient. The restaurant sports an interesting combination of modern fixtures and artwork along side the more typical aesthetic of a traditional Chinese banquet hall. The tables are well placed and the waiters are well turned out. Overall the dining experience is one of focus on the food, as it should be.

Quite simply Yunyan is one of Hong Kong’s few excellent Sichuan restaurants. The food is well presented and expertly prepared. Yunyan is utterly faithful to the authentic cuisine of its region and as such does not skimp on the spice. Be warned. The traditional starter of spicy ox’s shin, tongue and stomach (HK$58) is one of the highlights of the meal. The meat is perfectly done and heavily spiced, but not at the expense of its rich and complex flavour profile, a flawless dish. The pea noodle sheets in Sichuan chilli sauce (HK$48) are also excellent and not always easy to find in Hong Kong. For the mains the crispy chicken dices with spicy dried red chillies and Sichuan peppercorns (HK$108) are delicious. This must-order Sichuan dish is always a crowd-pleaser and Yunyan’s version held up against any on the mainland. For those needing some respite from the fiery Sichuan standards we strongly recommend the supreme chicken consommé and Tientsin cabbage topped with Yunnan ham slices (HK$128). Although traditionally a Shanghainese dish, it is prepared impeccably at Yunyan and is an excellent value. The cabbage having soaked in the rich chicken broth and imbued with the deep saltiness of the ham adds another highlight to the meal.

Wine is certainly not the focus at Yunyan. It does have a wine list and while not extensive, selections have obviously been made to complement the food. The staff are not always wine-savvy so it is often best to trust your instincts. Traditional Chinese wines, non-alcoholic beverages and teas make up for the lacklustre wine list.

The service for the most part is quite good. Although our waitress was new she was eager to please. Our server was not forthcoming with recommendations but this is easily attributable to her newness and the language barrier.

Yunyan is an exceptionally good value. They offer excellent food that is accessible to any budget. A meal for two comes to about HK$900.