Yung Kee is more like a fortress than merely a Cantonese restaurant, its iconic status reflected in massive multi-level dining rooms and their own lift operator. Any way to ease the traffic helps, as Yung Kee is packed every night (a 24-hour advance reservation might not be sufficient even on a weeknight). When we consider the sheer size of their headquarters, it’s an astounding daily turnover of happy diners. And yet, do not expect the usual din and elbow-to-elbow crowds typical of busy Cantonese restaurants. Tables are well-spaced, the noise level is perfect and the decor is tasteful. Yung Kee is surprisingly comfortable.

Like most Cantonese restaurants, the menu is hugely diverse from abalone and bird’s nest to simple, everyday favourites found in any household. At Yung Kee, you can eat like a rich man or a poor man depending on your taste and mood. In either case, however, you cannot go without a helping of their famous roasted goose, the dish that built their empire. To pass on their primary signature would be no less a shame than ordering chicken at a steakhouse. The flesh is beyond juicy and the skin – a roasted layer of crispy goodness – completes a recipe perfected for generations. Another highlight is the award-winning deep fried prawn with mini crab roe, a delicate creation of texture and flavour. Plump, whole prawns, a stick of bamboo shoot, spring onions and crab roe are wrapped in paper-thin bean curd sheets and deep fried. Additionally, the sautéed fillet of garoupa is a worthy dish, simple as it is delicious. Desserts at Yung Kee are relatively forgettable, although if you enjoy sweet red bean soup, their pungently herbal recipe is worth a try.

Wines by the glass are scarce at Yung Kee. In fact, two are available: a Crozes-Hermitage French red, and Gewürztraminer (known to their staff as “the white one”). The wine list is decent enough for a Chinese restaurant but it’s nothing to write home about. You’ll likely see familiar names to choose from. This is a good thing as you’re on your own and their staff will not be of much help with the selection process.

Yung Kee’s staff is well-trained and service is no fuss. There is no shortage of people to wait on diners, and they must be typically efficient to cover such a large restaurant. Dishes fly out of the kitchen and servers are never far away, polite and helpful when needed.

Dinner for two at Yung Kee costs about HK$900 to HK$1,000, but this figure can be higher or lower depending on your tastes. Whether you’re stopping in for a quick bite or celebrating with a feast, Yung Kee is almost always worth the price and potentially, the wait for a table.