There is something a bit retro in the low ceilings and autumnal browns and rusts of the colour scheme at Yan Toh Heen in Tsim Sha Tsui, but it is clear that fabrics and furnishings are all of the finest quality. The neutral palette does allow for focus on InterContinental’s close-up view of the folks promenading the Avenue of Stars just outside, all the way over to the bright lights of Causeway Bay over the harbour. We are also dazzled by the beautiful jade and silver tableware, which include an inlaid platter at the place setting and a chopstick rest carved into the shape of a fish.

Chef Lau has been wowing guests with his Cantonese recipes for over two decades, and it shows in the refinement of the cuisine. His famous homemade XO sauce does not disappoint – we sample the crispy cucumber with fungus XO chili sauce, a clean contrast which nicely showcases the medley of rich flavours. However, our other starter of golden frog legs with spicy salt is a rare hiccup in the evening – while the meat is plump and moist, the batter is too heavy and the presentation on sparkly pink gift wrap, an eyesore. More pleasing by magnitudes is the delectable golden stuffed crab shell with crabmeat– the baked meat is succulent and perfectly seasoned, making it hard to refrain from licking the empty shells. Also outstanding is the wok-fried wagyu beef with green peppers, mushrooms and garlic. Unusually for a Chinese dish, the meat is cooked to medium rare, preserving the meat’s juicy tenderness, while the mushrooms provide the perfect umami complement. Our wok-fried white asparagus with bamboo piths and mixed mushrooms is perhaps a tad overcooked, making the asparagus bitter, but the other vegetables are satisfactory. If you have room for carbs, the fried rice wrapped and steamed in lotus leaf has all the savoury wealth of the dim sum classic lo mai gai, but with none of the gelatinous weight.

The opening page of the wine list boasts a collection of fine premier wines, which though well out of reach for most, gives a clue to the depth of offerings. Calculated price points mean there is something for everyone, but don’t expect to part with less than HK$1,000 for something worthwhile. If you just cannot be bothered thinking about it, fear not – as well as the sommelier, the staff are able to give enthusiastic, knowledgeable suggestions.

Service marries the finesse and in-depth knowledge of hotel training, with a genuine warmth rarely seen at such establishments, through all levels of staff. After a red wine/white shirt mishap (entirely self-induced), the manager even offers to launder the stained garment and loan a clean one in the meantime.

At nearly HK$2,000 for two, with only a single glass of wine each, Yan Toh Heen does not come cheap, but the reliable excellence of the cuisine, the prime location, the gorgeous place settings and wonderful service ensure you won’t leave feeling ripped off.