Quite often, the expression of harmony is a delicate balance of temperature, colour, texture, taste, and sound: a sensory experience best described as a succession of internal reactions to the exterior world. Such a harmonious relationship exists in Yamazato with its thin, delicate floor-to-ceiling pale wood pillars, smoked glass dividers and the gentle sounds of muted avian life playing quietly in the background. The tranquility extends as you venture out into an elegantly constructed replica Japanese stone and tree garden. The only blot on this otherwise serene landscape are the pillars and towers of the Galaxy complex providing an imposing and rather discombobulated backdrop.

Executive chef Takashi Asanuma ensures there is a level of intricacy and refinement rarely found outside of Japan, and exquisitely crafted kaiseki sets are the order of the day here. The sashimi menu is surprisingly limited and indeed, there is no separate menu for sushi aficionados. Lunches cater predominantly toward the simple sit-down set lunch whereas the peckish at dinner would do best to go for either the Tuki or Hana kaiseki sets. The decadent (and most expensive) Tuki starts off with an invigorating and slightly spicy daikon stuffed inside a painstakingly carved lime skin, accompanied by an extremely tender baby abalone. The uni is fresh and full of a rich, musty flavour which lingers long after the last mouthful. The tiger prawn sashimi isn’t as sweet as the usual botan ebi but is still a delight. The highlight of the set is undoubtedly the sliced wagyu in hotpot with shiitake, mizuna greens and yuzu peppers. For the less hungry, the sushi kaiseki offers an extremely light but otherwise excellent steamed egg custard with crab, a grilled salmon and a verdant selection of sushi. Most sets appear to end with a small selection of fruit, and although not the most extravagant dessert, more than proves that simplicity and extremely fresh produce can be the perfect end to a meal.

There is a wide range of sake on the menu, and the sommelier is well-trained to point out and suggest different types to accompany and suit the food being served.The sake selection includes award-winning junmai daiginjo, junmai ginjo, junmaishu, honjozo as well as shochu and wines made from yuzu and plum.Our favourite was a pink Karo, which was dry and elegant and went perfectly with our meal.

The wait staff try valiantly to maintain an air of sang-froid, bottle caps and napkins are lain with great care and aplomb, well aware of the surroundings. Occasionally, a dish is served without an introduction, something that will no doubt be ironed out as the staff gains experience and confidence.

Yamazato isn’t a cheap option, but then good sushi and kaiseki rarely are. The Tuki kaiseki set is MOP1,680 per head while the most inexpensive lunch sets start at around MOP480.