The décor at this Wooloomooloo outlet in Wan Chai is contemporary and understated, with details such as Aboriginal dot patterns on candle holders and a framed cow hide lending a pleasing outback accent rather than a cheesy Ocker drawl, while high ceilings add to the sense of space. This allows diners to focus on the real star of the show, the restaurant’s stunning 31st floor views. The restaurant also boasts a roof-top bar, perfect for enjoying aperitifs, though the well-worn dance floor could do with refurbishment. Temperatures in the dining room are a tad chilly, cooling dishes drastically at the table.

Wooloomooloo excels in its execution of steakhouse standards. This is apparent from our first course, classic French onion soup and lobster bisque - the former is a particularly good rendition, emphasising the sweetness of the onions with a light hand on the salt. Other starters are less successful. Though the seared premium scallops are cooked to a turn, the spicy sauce overwhelm their delicate flavour, while the guacamole is unpleasantly over-processed. The blue swimmer crab cake is better, but could be crispier on the outside. But Wooloomooloo is really all about the meat, and the cowboy steak – a 24-ounce rib-eye on the bone – does not disappoint. Not to be attempted solo, the enormous cut is well-executed, bar the odd gristly mouthful. The Kurobuta pork cutlet is a similarly impressive portion, and while a little tough to cut, superbly juicy. Sides of hash brown (slathered with sour cream and spring onions) and the grilled asparagus with hollandaise sauce are tasty and well-seasoned. For dessert, the pavlova offers a classic Australian round up, generously topped with fruit, but lacks the prized marshmallowy centre. The banana and dulce de leche Napoleon proves a pleasing concoction, creamy, light and indulgent.

The wine list leads with solid Antipodean selections, both by the glass and bottle, and it is these the staff seem to feel most comfortable with. However, there is also a range of old and new world to round out the selection. Overall it is an unassuming list with limited variety, but affordable and agreeable.

Service is competent and discreet, ready to help when asked and never pushy. Staff could be more confident about the provenance of the ingredients, but even the most inexperienced members are unfailingly polite.

Dinner for two will tally over HK$500 per person with a couple of starters, a steak and dessert, excluding wine, which is reasonable given the expensive cuts of meats provided. Starters, however, are a bit ambitiously priced.