Hong Kongers are so spoiled by harbour views that we often forget how lucky we are. The view from Wooloomooloo Prime is like seeing the city for the first time. Located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, the restaurant’s terrace and floor-to-ceiling windows command spectacular views of Hong Kong island’s skyline, but you may find the bird’s eye view of Tsim Sha Tsui just as intriguing. The interior – tastefully contemporary yet simple – is lit just right. They have done exactly the right thing by letting the view do the talking. With such a perspective, it is easy to linger for hours after you eat.

Fresh seafood on ice is a great way to start your meal at Wooloomooloo Prime. Oysters (HK$195 for six) are of fine quality and served with a particularly well-balanced mignonette for the non-purist. Jumbo shrimp cocktail (HK$188) delivers on the dish’s reputation as a steakhouse staple. The signature starter – yellowfin tuna and spanner crab tartar (HK$178) – is an interesting blend of flavours and textures but risks being too elaborate, especially the slightly creamy dressing used in the top tuna layer. Diced orange and avocado with shallots and coriander form the base, followed by layers of crab meat and sashimi-grade yellowfin tuna. The signature steak is 12oz US Meyers rib eye (HK$620). It is a fine piece of meat but the grill marks on top are deceiving, when the rest of the steak is completely under-charred. On the flip side, 10oz New Zealand filet mignon centrecut (HK$350) is excellent. The steak is seared to an even perfection, tender as heaven and bursting with earthy flavours expected of quality grass-fed beef. Steaks come with a standard four-sauce accompaniment that borders on the superfluous. Sides are enjoyable, especially the excellent Lyonnaise potatoes (HK$60). For dessert, crème brûlée (HK$80) is tasty enough but we would recommend ordering the cheesecake (HK$90), a restaurant signature.

Wooloomooloo Prime offers 20 wines (red, white, sparkling and dessert) by the glass. Australian reds lead the way but there is a balanced selection of new and old world vintages. Bottles start from about HK$500 to over HK$2,000. An excellent feature of the wine list is notable scores for select vintages given by Robert Parker and Wine Spectator.

Exceedingly helpful and full of good cheer, Wooloomooloo Prime gets a high score for service. The staff is happy to give suggestions for both wine and food, and meals are served with a minimum of fuss and mistakes.

Dinner costs about HK$1,600 for a three-course meal for two, excluding wine. However, drinks after dinner may rack up a bill as you try and tear yourself away from that stunning terrace view.