Wing Lei is the Cantonese restaurant of the Wynn Macau. Although it offers haute Cantonese cuisine, the setting is not overtly formal thanks to the restaurant’s use of bright, primary colours for chair covers, seats, walls and plates. While Wing Lei is cheerfully and attractively decorated, we did notice a couple of minor flaws, such as a wrinkled and slightly stained tablecloth on our table, as well as an ungodly cold temperature throughout the restaurant.

Wing Lei is an excellent option for a traditional Cantonese dim sum lunch as diners are invited to select six of their favourite dim sum specialities for only MOP158 daily. The steamed dumplings are especially well-done: the mixed mushroom dumpling is delicate and light, while the vegetable and shrimp version is vibrant both in colour and flavour. The turnip cakes are steamed rather than pan-fried: the healthy cooking method combined with the copious amounts of discernible radish makes this dish seem healthier than usual. Moving onto larger items, the signature roasted pork belly with marinated jellyfish head complement each other well. The meaty pork belly is delicious on its own, but even better when eaten with the slightly sour, spicy and chewy jellyfish. A seasonal dish of stuffed pigeon with glutinous rice is an unsual and more refined twist on the “eight-treasure duck” dish with the small bird stuffed with hearty rice and chestnuts, which gives a nice texture to the dish. If more of a noodle fan, the stewed vermicelli with shredded duck and preserved vegetables is cooked with plenty of wok flavour, but impressively little oil. Finally, to end, the sesame-covered deep-fried dough balls filled with liquid egg custard is a perfect end to a classic Cantonese meal.

The wine selection at Wing Lei is varied with a good selection of whites by the glass, befitting a Chinese restaurant. There is also a strong selection of wines from Bordeaux for those with the budget, including bottles from Haut-Medoc that go up to MOP40,000-50,000. However, the list suits all price ranges, thanks to its selection of half-bottles. There are also some unusual inclusions such as wines from Lebanon as well as four white wines from Shanxi and Tianjin.

The service at Wing Lei is full of smiles and efficiency. The staff are attentive: teacups are constantly refilled and dropped napkins are replaced pretty much the second they hit the floor. The only area of improvement we would suggest is that when dishes are served, the wait staff are prone to mumbling the name of the dish before hurrying away. A more detailed introduction would be an added bonus, especially for those less familiar with Cantonese cuisine.

A meal for two at Wing Lei with wine is not expensive, coming to about MOP1,200. This is without any high-priced items such as live seafood or bird’s nest. Given the surroundings and quality of the ingredients, this is a good deal and explains the enduring popularity of the restaurant.