Modern and elegantly casual, Whisk in Tsim Sha Tsui achieves the neat trick of being both visually striking and instantly welcoming – much like the Mira hotel, in which it is located. Wandering into the restaurant, it’s impossible to miss the installation of gleaming white globes that dangle just beyond the glass barrier to your right, which double as the ceiling for Chinese restaurant Cuisine Cuisine below. A handful of tables for two with snazzily patterned, low-slung seats hug the edge of this mezzanine, while a few steps up to the left is the main dining area, with its muted colour palette of browns and creams. Adjacent are glass doors that lead to the hotel’s outdoor bar, Vibes.

Modern French cuisine embellished with playful twists and Asian accents is the order of the day here. A good example is the steamed escargot (HK$170), a half dozen of which come individually wrapped in baby spinach amid a foam of galangal and red radish. Unexpected perhaps, but the preparation keeps the snails wonderfully juicy and the spinach adds a burst of freshness. Foie gras ravioli (HK$220) fares less well; served with fresh artichoke, spinach and parmesan, it certainly hits the right flavour notes, but the ravioli casing is on the chewy side. On to the mains, and French Challans duck (HK$430) is another surprising rendition that takes chances and succeeds. Topped with a crunchy, peanut-brittle-esque coating, it has a nutty sweetness that is terribly moreish. M7 wagyu beef sirloin “Rossini” (HK$510) is an absolute must. Four pieces of succulent beef are plated alongside a mini-skewer of foie gras, a pair of spinach parcels, and a small mound of truffled potato. The wagyu is divine in its own right, but combined with the other ingredients: foodtopia. Vanilla mille-feuille (HK$98) is served with a trio of raspberry and is recommended, but whatever you do, don’t pass up the artisan cheese platter (HK$180), whereby you can select four varieties from a choice of ten on display in the centre of the room. A selection of unusual breads – from beetroot to walnut – is a nice touch.

What it may lack in extensive breadth, the wine list more than makes up for in value and accessibility. It’s a well-chosen selection that keeps things refreshingly simple while covering all the main bases. Look out also for their bin end list, from which it’s possible to find a bottle for under HK$300.

The staff is attentive without being obtrusive, and is happy to explain dishes in greater detail or make recommendations. A friendly demeanor adds to the relaxed atmosphere.

A three-course meal, excluding wine, costs about HK$600 per person, which is good value considering the well-executed food and wonderful service. A six-course tasting menu is available for HK$980 (plus HK$520 for wine pairing), while the express lunch is HK$218 for three courses.