The Riverside Regal Hotel’s Thai and Vietnamese restaurant Vi is located on the ground floor overlooking the river in Sha Tin and is accessible through the hotel garage. The interior is a slightly psychedelic take on an authentic South East Asian eatery. Overall the effect is lively, bustling and fun, and the old-fashioned ceiling fans are an additional charming feature. Although perhaps not a perfect date destination, families and groups of friends will feel right at home, and the noise level is low enough to encourage dinnertime conversation. Outdoor seating is also available when the weather permits.

The book-sized menu is packed with Thai and Vietnamese dishes of all kinds, although the descriptions do not always match the final product. Vegetarians will delight at the impressive selection of veggie options and seafood lovers will have a hard time choosing between the myriad fish and shellfish offerings. Certain dishes such as the underwhelming dien bien noodles with Vietnamese sausage, garlic, red chili and basil leaves (HK$78) are best avoided. Also not the most successful is the yellow beef brisket curry (HK$108), which is poorly executed with undercooked potatoes and stringy beef. However, the Saigon-style roasted chicken with basil leaves (HK$128) is a revelation, with mature flavours, juicy meat and crispy skin served in a generous portion with three innovative and delicious sauces. The deserts are also surprisingly sophisticated and scrumptious. The iced Valrhona chocolate soufflé and apple tart with vanilla ice cream are especially impressive and should not be missed.

At the time of the review, two Riverside Regal Hotel wines were on special promotion but diners would be best advised to bring their own (the corkage fee is HK$150) or stick to the specialty Thai beverage options; nothing beats a young coconut and the pineapple slush is singularly refreshing.

Unfortunately, the well-meaning but poorly trained staff can turn a casual dinner into a befuddling three hour-long affair. There are lots of smiles but not much real serving skill.

Vi is a good choice for value-conscious diners seeking reasonably priced Thai fare in a casual and friendly atmosphere in the Sha Tin area.