Located one level above the lobby of the Sheraton hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui, Unkai is divided into several different areas similar to other hotel Japanese restaurants catering to a variety of customer interests. Separate sushi and teppanyaki counters afford diners a more personalised dining experience with direct interaction with chefs, while those looking for a more private encounter can choose one of several private rooms with tatami mats. Individual tables dot the space in between the aforementioned areas, with vertical wooden beams providing simultaneously a degree of privacy without complete enclosure. Low key lighting adds to the ambience.

Like most hotel Japanese restaurants, Unkai serves the usual array of categories of Japanese fare – raw fish, deep-fried dishes, teppanyaki, hotpot, etc. The Take kaiseki set (HK$795) offers 10 courses for diners to sample the best of refined Japanese cuisine, with menu items that change according to the season. The braised fig is interesting while the deep-fried seasonal pike eel tastes only of batter and is thus disappointing. The Miyazaki beef, on the other hand, is enjoyable. The sushi is somewhat disappointing, with the sea urchin (HK$160 for two pieces) and crab miso (HK$100 for two pieces) tasting slightly less than jet-fresh. Fortunately the sea eel sushi (HK$100) fares better. The teppanyaki prawn (HK$170) and assorted vegetables (HK$75) are both solid efforts, but the Australian abalone (HK$680) comes pre-sliced instead of being in its shell, raising the question whether one is served a whole abalone. The Kagoshima A5 sirloin (HK$1,200 for 200g) looks beautifully marbled, but is overcooked on the hot plate as the chef apologises.

The sake selection is reasonably extensive, with a variety of sizes as well as grades ranging from sparkling to top end junmai daiginjo. A broad spectrum of styles as well as prices are available, including off-menu rarities. The helpful wine list includes short tasting notes. Perhaps unsurprisingly, France wines occupy the largest portion on the wine side, but there is a good selection from other regions around the world as well as a wide diversity in terms of grape varietals. Wines chosen as “Starwood Wines of the World” are clearly identified as recommendations to diners.

The staff is courteous and efficient, making sure the empty plates are removed efficiently. Our only unpleasant surprise was that the second, third and fourth dishes of the kaiseki set were served simultaneously – breaking with protocol. Staff is extremely helpful in recommending sake to accompany the meal.

A meal for two, with two set meals such as kaiseki or shabu shabu and a small bottle of sake should come to just over HK$2,000.