The Excelsior is definitely the 4-star sister to the Mandarin Oriental Group’s 5-star splendour and ToTT’s slips in well into this framework. Located in an older building along the waterfront in Causeway Bay that has enjoyed a recent facelift, ToTT’s displays the same reserved décor that characterises the old Mandarin and historical remnants such as the 70s style aluminium window frames. But ToTT’s main draw is the spectacular harbour view from the 34th floor. Tables are thoughtfully ranged along the windows so everyone can get an eyeful of the sea view, with the Police Officers’ and Yacht Club below, not to mention the quintessentially Hong Kong view of traffic streaming along the Causeway Bay motorways.

The cuisine at ToTT’s combines the high-end ingredients and sensibilities of fine dining, but with a simplicity and price point that makes it more approachable than HK’s most famous eateries. Soups are elegantly poured at the table over the dry ingredients and while tasty, one could easily forgo them to focus on the starters. The chef really rolls up his sleeves here – we are thoroughly impressed by the confit of “Murray River” belly pork with its sweet and salty, crisp and gooey juxtapositions. Though the portion size is far too large for an appetiser, the condiments of truffle honey and caramelised fig tart make it impossible to hold back. The tartlet of foie gras, ceps and sweetbreads with chocolate vinaigrette is also pleasing though less stunning. There’s no room for the timid in the signature assiette of “Burgand” duck with parsnip purée and cherry jus – the duck is presented four ways, with each version richer than the last: duck breast, duck meat, duck liver and duck egg yolk (the most beautifully poached we have ever tasted). While the flavours are divine, it really needs more texture to cut through the fat than some purée and lone asparagus spear. More easy-going is the Iberico pork with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese, a delightfully up-market interpretation of a pub classic. Perhaps as a counter to the full force of the preceding courses, desserts are unremarkable – the Eton’s mess deconstructs the ingredients into neat piles, but is somewhat unsatisfying sans “mess” and the iced peach soufflé is a touch syrupy, despite the fun presentation.

The menu is a well-crafted selection of broadly international bases suited to the traveller’s tastes and wallet. While it does not boast bottles that require a second mortgage, familiar styles from a host of regions are on offer alongside premier examples from each, with carafes available.

Service has all the hallmarks of Mandarin training, but with an easiness that suits the unpretentious clientele of low-key business travellers, tourists and airline staff.

For the prime location, service and indulgent cuisine, the cost of a 3-course dinner at just over HK$1,000 for 2 people (not including wine) is a steal. An 8-course tasting menu is also available at only HK$788 per head.