Given Tosca’s 102nd floor perch in the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and two-storey floor-to-ceiling windows, it goes without saying that the view over Hong Kong Island is spectacular. And yet, the vista doesn’t dominate the room to quite the extent one might expect, due largely to the sizeable chandeliers and impressively sculpted water features that vie for guests’ attention. The plainly appointed white-clothed tables offer an effective contrast to the glitz, while seating is chunky and comfortable. There’s also an open kitchen at which to view the small platoon of chefs beavering away on their intricately wrought creations.

The menu here is briefer than one might expect, but still manages to encompass a reasonably broad spectrum of updated southern Italian classics with an emphasis on seafood. The presentation, meanwhile, is delightful throughout. Roasted pigeon, white peach and foie gras (HK$260) makes for a pleasingly pungent appetiser, the rich and juicy flesh of the bird given license to shine thanks to expert preparation. For something a touch lighter on the palate, Alaska king crab, avocado and cous cous salad with Sorrento citrus (HK$320) offers a refreshing and zesty option. To follow, there is a choice of seven pasta dishes and six entrees: three fish and three meat. It’s hard to fault the grilled Mediterranean sea bass (HK$420), the succulent cut of fish served on a bed of crushed potatoes, Pachino tomatoes and black olives. Lamb chops (HK$420) are generously proportioned, cooked to a tee, and crusted with a layer of pistachio to bring out the best in the meat. The accompanying Jerusalem artichoke puree offers a subtle counterpoint that balances the dish nicely. If you’re lucky, the chef may whip you up a special dessert sampler, but if not the Tosca tiramisu (HK$90) should satisfy even the most discerning of sweet tooths.

As you might guess from the seemingly never-ending racks of bottles displayed behind glass on your way in, the wine selection here is extensive. The list of Italian reds is exceptional, while you’ll also find some big vintages from France, not to mention some intriguing new world picks. There’s also an impressive 28 tipples available by the glass.

Ritz-Carlton hotels have a hard-earned reputation for excellent service, and Tosca is no different. As well as being diligent, the staff knows the menu inside out, and is confident making recommendations.

A three-course meal with service costs about HK$900, not including wine. The million-dollar view comes at no extra charge.