Enter a past era of elegance and refinement as Spring Moon at the Peninsula is decorated in Shanghainese 1930s nightclub style. The Cantonese restaurant offers large and well-spaced tables with comfortable padded seating. Fans gently whirl overhead on the high ceiling. Background music features female singers crooning soft jazz in Mandarin.

Classic Cantonese with all the expected items on the extensive menu which changes quarterly. Lunchtime dim sum is highly popular and of the highest quality. Fresh steamed crab claw with firm cooked egg white and fish broth is a joy to behold and to savour. One speciality, a roasted pigeon with osmanthus disappoints as the pigeon is tough and stringy though the osmanthus sauce is delicious. Braised sea cucumber stuffed with minced meat and black truffle is an unusual and successful combination. Even the simple dishes are perfectly cooked. Sauteed minced pork and string beans with preserved olives and a fried rice wrapped and steamed in lotus leaf are two examples. The beans are crunchy whilst the rice fragrant and al dente; not overcooked. Sichuan-style noodles in soup are typical hotel fare; well-balanced but bland. Sauces which normally do not attract more than a passing glance deserve mention. Spring Moon’s chili sauce is excellent quality and has a kick whilst XO sauce uses Hunan ham, rather than cheap salted fish. Both will suitably spice up the Sichuan noodles although it should be noted that Spring Moon charges HK$35 for the XO sauce, unlike most restaurants where it is complimentary. Dessert is classic Cantonese with chilled mango pudding or sweetened glutinous rice dumplings with sesame, both of which are equally delicious. The selection of tea is extensive.

The massive list has most of the great names and often from several different vintages. The list is particularly strong in Bordeaux, Burgundy and California. Wines by the glass are a well-chosen, interesting selection. Typical five-star hotel markups apply.

Outstanding and very professional. Staff have been with the Peninsula for many years and fully understand the menu and the quality of service required. Finger bowls appear at the right moment and dirty plates are surreptitiously replaced.

A carefully chosen sumptuous meal for two without drinks is HK$1,400. Live seafood, dried abalone, or bird’s nest could bump up the bill substantially. Dim sum at lunch is a cheaper alternative.