Located on the lobby level of the InterContinental in Tsim Sha Tsui, diners who are lucky enough to be seated next to the floor-to-ceiling windows have a true front-row seat of the Victoria Harbour. Diners can admire not only the passing boats, but even the waves seem close enough to touch. Spoon serves modern French cuisine and the interior matches the kitchen’s intent, as it is both casual and more informal, with a view of the open kitchen and whimsical namesake spoons lining the ceilings.

Spoon showcases modern French cuisine that is executed to a high standard, but with less fuss and foam than other restaurants of its calibre. The signature steamed duck foie gras from Les Landes is a fantastic way to start the meal. Rather than the usual pan-fried variety, this steamed version combines the silkiness of a liver cooked au torchon, but served at a higher temperature and with a spicy cherry marmalade and toasted brioche that is more commonly seen with a sautéed foie gras. For vegetarians, the crispy vegetables and mushroom tart is every bit as delicious. An assortment of vegetables are cooked with black truffle, before being piled onto a nutty phyllo pastry. The dish is light and healthy, the fennel gives it just the slightest peppery kick. For mains, the duckling cooked on a spit and served with beetroot and turnips is the perfect autumnal dish. With a small portion of the breast cooked to rare as requested, we particularly like that the duckling has not been over-rendered, leaving a good amount of fat underneath the skin. A side of the leg is served as confit, which is a little too over-seasoned with both salt and pepper for our liking. Prior to dessert, we order a cheese plate, which comes with four different types of French cheese. The comté and reblochon are memorable and the only flaw was that we were promised a Fontainebleau, but no blue cheese arrived to enliven the cheese platter.

The gregarious chief sommelier Nicolas Deneux is available to help diners navigate the extensive wine list at Spoon, which encompasses mainly wines from France, broken down into minute regions. There is a surprising number of organic wine labels. For those looking for something different, Deneux is more than happy to recommend something out of the ordinary, such as a sulphurous red wine grown on the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, a surprisingly perfect match to the vegetable tart.

The service at Spoon is without doubt attentive, friendly and knowledgeable; but the staff may be just a touch too loquacious for local tastes.

A four-course dinner for two with wine will come to just under HK$3,000. Considering the level of service, quality of the well-executed dishes and jaw-dropping views of Victoria Harbour, this is a splurge that is well worth your while.