The Banyan Tree Macau is perhaps not the luxury hotel chain’s most tranquil resort, sharing many facilities and the rest of the complex with the Galaxy and Okura groups, but Saffron, its signature restaurant offering contemporary Thai cuisine, more than makes up for it. With beautiful, tall ceilings and furnished with dark woods, the restaurant feels spacious and at the same time, provides a serenity to the rush that is Macau. Intricately designed cushions, wall coverings, elegant wood ornaments and soothing music all harmonise the space perfectly, giving a wonderfully relaxed yet classically Thai setting.

Unlike most Thai soups, which can taste a little astringent if not made with good stock, the tom yung goong at Saffron is a bowl of spice market heaven with a rich, racy and incredibly fragrant broth. Delightfully crispy rice and prawn crackers take the place of a bread basket and are accompanied by a trio of excellent and diverse dips. The Thai salad is perhaps one of the simplest and most exotic of dishes coming from the kingdom, and Saffron’s papaya salad is absolutely pitch perfect flavour-wise. A large selection of vegetarian dishes is in keeping with Thai tradition, and the southern Massaman curry is robust and full of flavour, with vegetables of different sizes meaning there is a variety to each bite. The unexpected addition of raw red onions lends not only texture but also a surprising bite to the mild curry, as do the sides of pickled carrots and cucumbers. The sweetness of Thai curries is often enhanced by fruit such as lychee or pineapple but quite often the diner has no control over the level of fruit (and therefore sweetness), and so it is refreshing to see that Saffron plates lychees and pineapple on the side of the roasted red duck curry. A quadruplet of differing rice bowls arrive on a long, elegant glass plate and consist of jasmine, pandan, saffron and watermelon infused rice. The pandan in particular, is a standout and an excellent accompaniment to any dish. For dessert, the mango sticky rice is just the proper amount of sticky and we appreciate that the coconut ice cream on the side is made with real coconut milk, rather than the more cloying coconut essence that is usually the shortcut taken nowadays.

A carefully curated wine selection ensures a wide range of wines for almost any budget. Unusual picks from Slovenia and China mean the restaurant looks beyond the usual suspects but we were drawn to the Sacred Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2010, which stands up to the spice levels admirably.

The wait staff are extremely warm, kind and attentive. Diners are treated to a rather delightful jasmine water hand soak upon being seated, and orchids are offered for female diners, an ever-present sign of Thai hospitality at its best.

A dinner for two with wine will come to under MOP1,000. Given the beauty of its surroundings, the excellent quality of the food and the genuine Thai hospitality, this is not at all unreasonable.