The interior is tasteful, the staff is accommodating, and the lighting is suitably intimate. Yet, there is something strangely subdued about Ruth’s Chris. This branch of an American institution lacks that familiar steak house vibe. Devouring a steak is about joy and indulgence, and the ambience should adequately reflect that regardless of whether the restaurant is busy or not. You can barely hear any background noise or music, and the restaurant’s floor plan is also problematic. While diners are scattered about in private or semi-private dining rooms, it robs the restaurant of a bustling core. On a quiet weeknight of covers, the tranquility of Ruth’s Chris borders on the awkward.

A signature appetiser is barbecued shrimp New Orleans style, sautéed with white wine reduction, butter, garlic and a little spice. It is surely tasty but not memorable. The flavours work and the preparation is adequate, but a signature dish should demand more than faint praise. It is no more or less enjoyable than the sizzlin’ jumbo scallops served in lemon butter and parsley pesto. Now on to the serious business: Ruth’s Chris stocks the usual top-of-the-line USDA Prime cuts, all served on a scalding plate sizzling in butter. Yes, it keeps your steak warmer but it does, however, continue the cooking process. The sirloin arrived with an uneven centre that continued to develop. However, good beef is good beef. The rib-eye and filet cuts are delicious signature cuts, charred beautifully. Don’t overcomplicate with their excellent side dishes: the baked Idaho potato is a must. You will remember how this humble vegetable should really taste and smell. Julienne potatoes are basically French fries that are well-prepared, as is the luscious mix of cheese and cream in the potatoes au gratin. A signature dessert is the infinitely comforting New Orleans favourite, bread pudding with whisky sauce.

Ruth’s Chris stocks a decent wine list that offers fair variety. However, with the exception of two items, wines begin at HK$500-plus a bottle and go considerably higher. The wine list is organised by grape varietals and geography, each page and subsection accompanied by a brief and helpful introduction.

No complaints here as Ruth’s Chris service is attentive from beginning to end. The staff is polite, professional and cheerful, able to recommend wines and dishes fluently. Food arrives steadily from the kitchen, served with a minimum of fuss.

Dinner for two will easily cost over HK$1,600 without wine, and Ruth’s Chris is unlikely to disappoint. They’ve been cooking steak for a long time. However, one wonders if they have been doing the same thing for too long a time? You might remember it being better in the old days.