The Royal Garden’s Chinese restaurant is located in the basement of the hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui East. Arriving guests are escorted over an imperial bridge to a decor that is reminiscent of the 1980’s. One can imagine JR Ewing doing oil deals over lunch here. The atmosphere however remains inviting with widely separated tables amid the chatter of local diners and hotel guests, which lends an audible buzz to the atmosphere, but not distractingly so.

The Royal Garden is renowned for its local and regional Chinese dishes for well over a decade and the arrival of a new executive chef shall ensure it remains at the forefront of Chinese cuisine in Hong Kong. The greatest of care has been taken to keep familiar dishes true to their identity while new dishes such as finely sliced garoupa stuffed with black truffle on a bed of puréed pumpkin with egg white will astound the diner with its elegance and fragrance. Regional and seasonal dishes from across China are served with a passion that reflects the zeal of the chef to create Chinese food that will excite and enlighten the diner. This includes dishes such as a poached Chinese celery stem with black fungus or the crispy pigeon. The chef’s surprise presentation of regional desserts from Zhongshan completes a Chinese meal that is close to perfect. His take on provincial desserts that are sophisticated in taste such as a chilled cinnamon pudding with almond juice will please even the most modern of urban diners.

Make sure to ask for the hotel’s master wine list, which includes a good range of labels from the old and new world. Unusual entries include three chardonnays from China, two from Grace Vineyard in Shanxi and one from Great Wall winery in Huaxia. Those with the budget can choose from an expensive selection of Bordeaux, including bottles of Lafite and Latour that are priced at well over ten thousand dollars.

Excellent service with waiters knowledgeable of the food being served; a visit by the chef also allowed great discussion of the food and the flavours within. Wine and tea are poured promptly and dishes presented properly and on time; all staff carry on with a smile and courteous manner.

A meal for two with wine will cost about HK$1,100. It is not a cheap meal, but the food is sumptuous and worthy of its price tag.