Previously Robuchon a Galera, the fine dining flagship Robuchon restaurant in Macau has moved from the Hotel Lisboa to the dome of the Grand Lisboa, with grand 360-degree views of Macau plus a new name, Robuchon au Dôme. Now on the 43rd floor, the views are impressive, to say the least. A snazzy black and gold colour theme with lots of glass has replaced the previous royal blue and gold motif of Robuchon a Galera and the white tablecloths have also disappeared, giving the new restaurant a more modern appearance.

Chef Francky Semblat has stayed at the helm of this new restaurant, and theoretically, the menu has witnessed minimal change. However, it was with some disappointment that we noted the food at Robuchon au Dôme was just a shade below that of Robuchon a Galera. The meal starts off on a high note with an amuse bouche of sea urchin on cauliflower panna cotta with olive oil: the flavours are gentle yet each individual ingredient shines brightly. Our proper appetisers are more disappointing: a signature truffle, onion and bacon tart is immaculately and impressively presented. Perfect round slices of black truffle cover a thin disc of pastry with a bacon and onion quince. Tasting the dish, however, we were dismayed to find that the thick slices of raw black truffle had a rather unpleasant rubbery texture and were also surprisingly bland. Our other appetiser of a beef consommé with foie gras foam, two foie gras ravioli and bone marrow on toast fares better. We thought the ravioli was absolutely perfect but the side of bone marrow is too garlicky for such a subtle first course. For mains, we try the A5 Kagoshima wagyu which is tender, succulent and beautifully cooked. However, one could argue that with such a superlative piece of meat, the thick layer of wine-simmered red shallot crust with peppercorns is unnecessary, even overpowering. Our other main of pan-fried scallops with celery root also comes with black truffle, but this time the buttery truffle is much more successful, providing a savoury umami counterpart to the sweet molluscs. To end, the dessert trolley allows guests to sample the best of the selection, including the justly famous Napolean with vanilla cream; a strongly flavoured opera cake; and a deliciously gooey caramel and chocolate tart. Alternatively, the cheese trolley is always an excellent option.

The Lisboa hotels have one of the strongest wine lists in Asia and unless guests had wrists of steel, such a tome can only be properly presented on an iPad. A sommelier is on hand to help you choose from a selection with over 8,000 labels, including some surprisingly good-value options. Wines by the glass total 10, ranging from MOP190 to MOP350 for a Bordeaux from Saint-Julien.

The service is of the usual impeccable Robuchon standard. The staff are experts on the menu and able to answer a query faultlessly. While those who are keen to get back to the tables may find the pace a tad slow, we rather enjoyed the leisurely experience of being seated for 40 minutes and enjoying three amuse bouches before being presented with our appetisers.

A meal for two with a shared dessert and no wine will come to MOP3,000. Considering the view, the Robuchon name and the high-quality ingredients, this is not too expensive. However, for value, coming at lunch is a much better idea as the experience is nearly identical at a third of the cost.