You can tell that the spacious and formal dining room was once grand and opulent, with its ample use of gold and blue, ample wine displays (to house the 7,000-strong collection) cheese and dessert trolleys. But Robuchon a Galera is showing its age, and though still managing to transmit a certain old-fashioned charm, is in definite need of an upgrade. For most, the decor won’t be a selling point - the food definitely is, remaining one of the most revered restaurants in Asia. It was a relief to find out during our visit that by January 2011, Robuchon will be moving to a new space next door, to the Grand Lisboa.
Food
As one of Hong Kong and Macau’s most exclusive restaurants, expectations are high, and for the most part, Robuchon manages to meet it. Off the tight and thoughtful menu that changes depending on the season, we started off with the signature caviar appetiser, which came served three ways. The light-as-air caviar jelly came topped with a velvety cauliflower cream. Next came fine coral jelly in aniseed cream, which resembles milky crabmeat in texture, topped with a generous layer of caviar on top, while tiny crunchy cones come stuffed with avocado salsa and lime zest before being crowned with a helping of caviar. Presentation is whimsical, unique and fun. For lovers of foie gras, this also comes served three ways; the steamed foie gras, creamy in its texture, which came in a vegetable mille-feuille for a contrast in texture and a truffle emulsion for that lingering earthy aftertaste. Seared foie gras with cherry jubilee and fresh almond was good quality but nothing unexpected. It was the third preparation, foie gras ravioli in chicken broth with herbs medley and spicy cream that blew us away. The dish is so light and biting into the thin pockets of ravioli releases almost melted foie gras silkily onto your tongue. Next came the Amadai fillet, which came perfectly pan-fried so that the fish retained its moisture and served on a bed of artichokes, not a bad option if you’re looking for some seafood. For the mains, the duck breast and foie gras was delightful take on a French classic, being pressed and cooked together with rock salt, pepper and with reduction of seasonal fruits. Don’t forget to take some of Robuchon’s famous pureed potatoes - the silkiest mashed potatoes you’ll ever come across. And though the dessert trolley looked tempting, unfortunately none of the desserts we had was memorable enough to write home about, including a over-soaked rum cake. The complimentary lemon cake you’re handed as you leave though is of excellent quality.
Wine
One of the most impressive wine lists in the region - 7,000-strong selection of anything and everything you could ever want. Not sure how to go through the 322-page thick wine list or even the iPad version? Then take advantage of the knowledgeable and charming sommelier who does justice to his impressive cellar.
Assessment from Jeannie Cho Lee, Master of Wine: This is one of the most impressive wine lists in the region and one of the few recipients of Wine Spectator's Grand Award in Asia. It is a wine lover's dream list with reasonable markups and some hidden bargains from a selection of nearly 7,000 wines on 322 pages. Enjoy playing with the iPad version of the list!
Service
As expected for a restaurant of such calibre, the service is impeccable. Robuchon is also quite famous for its value-for-money executive lunch sets.
Price
Dinner for two with wine will cost around MOP4,000.
One of my all-time favorite restaurants. Their lunch deal is amazing value considering the price you pay at dinner. The only downside is that sometimes, that one, single dish you enjoyed so much the last time you were here simply won't be available anymore due to the ever-changing menu. A small quibble, but it's the only fault I can find. I would go back just for the bread basket alone.
