Located in the daunting Venetian Hotel, Portofino offers an oasis of old-world charm in the midst of the bright lights and bustle of one of Macau’s largest casino hotels. The interior is tastefully appointed with tiled floors, comfortable seating and a mouthwatering view of the fresh seafood selection. The large, almost cavernous space is made to feel cosy and is infused with soft light from the restaurant’s dramatically oversized chandeliers. Most charming is Portofino’s outdoor area, which offers shaded seating under umbrellas and surrounded by swaying palms with a view over the Venetian’s impressive pool area.

Portofino offers some of the best Italian food in both the SARs. The food tends to be rich and the portions large, which, coupled with the extensive menu, makes over-ordering a real danger. Passable starters, like the baked oysters with pancetta, garlic and spinach (MOP250) or the calamari fritti with spicy pomodoro and tartar sauce (MOP80), give way to truly exceptional mains. The gratinated potato gnocchi, buffalo mozzarella, Parmesan, tomato sauce, basil and oregano (MOP130) is delicious with perfectly sauced and pillow-like gnocchi in a dish that is both rich and exceptionally fresh. The restaurant’s signature Parma pizza with ham, buffalo mozzarella, pesto and arugula salad (MOP170) is near perfect with a thin crispy crust containing a subtly acidic subtle pizza sauce, which blends with the richness of the cheese and cut by the salty ham and spicy arugula. The bistecca di wagyu M7 (MOP498) is the undoubted highlight of the meal. The steak is cooked to perfection, fork-tender and served with balsamic glaze, parmigiano reggiano , fresh cherry tomatoes and arugula. It is a steak that will still be in your thoughts weeks after the meal. If, against all odds, you still have room for dessert, the tiramisu (MOP75) and chocolate gianduia tart (MOP75) will surely not disappoint.

Portofino has an extensive wine list with bottles in every price range and from nearly every region. As expected, the Italian and Portuguese offerings are especially impressive. A large selection of wines is available by the glass but other sizing options like half bottles and magnums are non-existent.

Service is spot-on, relaxed but professional with an impressive knowledge of the menu and wine list. Dishes arrive hot and on time and staff is never more than a moment away.

Portofino offers quite good value for money, especially when you take in to account the large portion sizes and affordable wine options. A satisfying dinner for two can be had under MOP900.