The Peak Lookout is remarkable in its ability to be different things to diverse groups of diners. For tourists, this converted sedan-carrier’s resting place is a historical must-see with a beautiful view of Aberdeen. For lovers, it is a romantic date spot with its alfresco garden and fairy lights. For families, it is one of the most dog-friendly restaurants in Hong Kong while its extensive menu ensures that there is something to please even the pickiest of toddlers and teenagers.

With such an extensive menu as the one at Peak Lookout, it is useful to go prepped with some knowledge of what are its best dishes. The Hainan chicken rice is a signature dish, and its tandoor oven is also known to produce some of the best tandoori chicken and seabass in town. However, with a live seafood bar, it would be a shame not to start a meal with a selection of oysters. We order half a dozen of various south Australian varietals and without exception they are incredibly fresh, juicy and expertly shucked. Our other appetiser of Indian vegetarian samosas is a little less exciting: the flavours are fine, but the pastry itself is a bit thick. Our other Indian dish of tandoori sea bass is much more successful: the fish is well-cooked, smoky and not a bit dry, resting on a bed of assorted vegetables and topped with coriander. Another signature of Hainan chicken rice is also quite good: the chicken is deboned and the texture is succulent, though perhaps not the most flavourful bird we’ve tasted. Similarly, while the rice is well-greased, it is also a tad bland. We enjoy the addition of winter melon to the accompanying soup although here, the salt was also frugally held back.

The Peak Lookout has quite an extensive collection of wine, which is a shame then that the staff are not more familiar with it. When we asked for a recommendation to go with our meal, a standard Wolf Blass chardonnay was gestured at with no other comment. When we then asked to try two other whites before ordering, we were met with looks of disbelief.

The restaurant is certainly busy and sometimes orders can be confused in the bustle. While it is certainly efficient and experienced, the service generally lacks finesse: while plates are by no means slammed down, nor are they placed in front of you unobtrusively.

A three-course meal for two including oysters and wine comes to about HK$1,200. Considering its picturesque surroundings and quite enjoyable food, this is not a lot to pay.