The spectacular setting at Ovologue makes this establishment one of the most original Chinese restaurants in the Wan Chai neighbourhood. A high ceiling-ed space on the ground floor of a century-old building (once a pawn shop) explains the restaurant’s unique and kitschy façade. Most people will be disoriented upon first entering the space, when they find themselves in Ovologue’s store rather than the restaurant, with shelves filled with artsy bric-a-brac. Walk deeper within the building to reach the dining room, a darkened and angular space with striking art and interior pieces, including glossy red Buddha sculptures, most of which are for sale. With shimmering lights and visuals projected on the walls and striking interior features such as a tall arch in exposed brick at the centre of the room, Ovologue is a cultured venue inspired by modern China.

If only the food was as imaginative as the décor: despite the dishes’ beautiful presentation, Ovologue’s attempts to modernise provincial Chinese cuisine are so unsuccessful that diners may wish the kitchen had just left the classics alone. One of the few dishes that pull off the cosmopolitan Chinese dining theme is the stir-fried wild mushrooms in truffle oil (HK$98), with Asian mushrooms like shitake tossed in the aromatic oil so beloved in the West. Sweet and sour pork with dried fruits and aged vinegar (HK$128) is another fair effort, without the flaming red food colouring usually associated with this Chinese favourite. The tart sauce, sweetened with dried cranberries and sultanas, cloaks the crisp and well-battered pieces of pork. The Shanghai duck meat pancakes fail miserably however, a misleading dish as the name implies the roasted poultry is served with thin flour-based pancakes. What arrives instead resembles frittatas, the egg-fuelled batter studded with tiny pieces of duck meat, water chestnut and more. A dipping sauce on the side, a blend of sweet plum sauce and ketchup, couldn’t revive this ill-conceived dish. Avoid the braised beef in Sichuan hot sauce (HK$158) unless you can tolerate excessive spice. The beef, practically encrusted with chilli flakes, arrives on sautéed vegetables soggy from the enormous pool of chilli oil that covers the entire plate. After such a middling meal, Ovologue’s desserts are a welcome treat with a trio of familiar Chinese bites in the dessert platter, including mango pudding and sweet glutinous rice cake dusted in desiccated coconut (HK$38).

Expect fancy cocktails and spirits you’d find at any cosmopolitan bar in the city, including lychee martinis and mojitos as well as in-house specials. A handful of regional Chinese teas are available, including a unique hakka osmanthus flower phoenix oolong tea. For wines, although the popular regions are covered, the selection is thin. The list varies from table wine or wines from boutique wineries squeezed in with a few international favourites, especially when it comes to champagnes. Wines by-the-glass are severely limited.

Staff are warm, professional and very eager to please with diners’ requests delivered promptly. If only the wait staff were more familiar and well-versed with the menu, they could have added more value to the service.

A proper feast for two that includes soups, appetizers, main courses and desserts (but excluding wine), summons a bill of around HK$500.