Discrete elegance sets the tone at One Harbour Road, located on the 8th floor of the Grand Hyatt in Wan Chai. After being greeted, a host guides you down an open staircase that winds down to the grand dining room, where tables surround a lovely centrepiece fountain. The trickling of water from the fountain is a soothing alternative to music and the champagne-coloured decor is lovely against the backdrop of Hong Kong harbour. Whether a romantic meal, family gathering or business dinner, a meal at One Harbour Road is intimate and elegant without being stuffy or pretentious.

Chinese cuisine is elevated to the highest level at One Harbour Road. The extensive menu offers something for everyone, from traditional Chinese delicacies such as bird’s nest to modern dishes such as the popular deep-fried prawns with sesame seeds tossed in mayonnaise. Chef’s recommendations are indicated on the menu and include signature wok-fried prawns in spicy sauce glazed with crab coral. Although not particularly spicy, the prawns are succulent and juicy, cooked with stirred egg whites and generously studded with bright orange crab coral which imparts a luxurious finish. Each order comes with eight prawns. Fresh seafood, including garoupa, conch, lobster, shrimp and crab, are prepared to order. Coral crab stir-fried with ginger and spring onions is delicious, although a bit messy to eat. Sichuan camphor tea-smoked duck is smoky, earthy and velvety, served with soft, pillowy steamed buns. The duck skin is crispy and flavourful, while the meat is juicy yet smoky. The wok-fried shredded beef with chilli is so tender that chewing is barely required. For dessert, either the mango pudding or the chilled sago cream with pomelo and mango is a perfect ending – light, refreshing and delicately sweet.

One Harbour Road has an impressive wine selection, including a Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2005 Bordeaux – save it for a special occasion as it will set you back HK$28,000 per bottle. Wines by the bottle are organised by region and offer choice selections for every budget. Wines by the glass are thoughtfully selected and include a Bodega Chacra 2008 Pinot Noir, a smooth and lovely red with hints of dark berries.

Service is impeccable, with wait staff anticipating and attending to diners’ every need discretely and courteously. If there are any doubts about what to order, ask the staff – their recommendations are always excellent.

Haute Cantonese cuisine comes at a price. Dinner will cost about HK$600 to HK$800 per person, excluding wine, but can easily double that range if abalone or bird’s nest dishes are ordered.