Olive’s recent refurbishment has drawn heavily on the architecture of the Middle East. Gone are the whitewashed Greek influences of the Soho restaurant’s previous incarnation, replaced with shadowy lighting, worked iron, patterned floors, dark wood and draped fabrics. But the design incorporates these elements with a contemporary twist, such as Arabic lettering that is etched onto modern aluminium wall panels. While not extraordinary, the makeover does help Olive standout from the glut of competing restaurants and bars on Elgin Street. The restaurant is obliged to work within tight Soho floor space, and unfortunately tables do feel cramped together – it is difficult not to eavesdrop on neighbours’ conversations.

Olive has a winning formula down pat, with traditional recipes served up with a modern Australian sensibility, thanks to the menu designed by Melbourne chef Greg Malouf. The mezze menu is a smorgasbord of fantastic choices and it is with difficulty that we lock down only four – not a single bite disappoints. The baked lamb meatballs are perfectly pink through with a zesty complement of cucumber tzatziki and pomegranates. The oven roasted quail bursts with juices as well as its mild chorizo stuffing, while the haloumi cheese with fig jam is simply a match made in the Elysian Fields. Our only criticism for the steamed mussels tagine is that it doesn’t come with a spoon to slurp up the delectable broth. Main courses are simple, hearty and exquisitely executed. The bisteeya has tender rabbit baked in a delicate pastry, the gamey flavours contrasted with an unexpected dusting of cinnamon sugar and the crunch of minted white cabbage. Slivers of almond appear as a surprise treat in the middle. The preserved lemon risotto is richly textured, but the flavours are light enough for the summer sultriness. Dessert of burnt honey yoghurt sorbet offers a refreshing sour finish, juxtaposed against homemade Persian fairy floss and heaps of fresh fruit.

The Middle East is less known for its viticulture than its cuisine, and to bridge this gap the wine list sensibly offers a good selection from regions of similar environs, e.g. Spain and Italy, although Lebanon also makes an appearance. The menu is categorised by varietals, simplifying the task of decision.

The staff are attentive and personable and some sympathy should be given to their task being made that much more difficult by the congested layout – that they negotiated this without major disruption to the diners is a testament to their abilities.

Starters are around the HK$100 mark, mains for the most part are under HK$200 and desserts peak at HK$78 – the very modest bill left us gleefully plotting frequent returns. A meal for two came to under HK$900 with wine.